Short and Long term LS storage
09-08-2014, 10:09 PM
#1
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Short and Long term LS storage
This was also posted on LS1 Tech, so sorry for members who read both.
I have 3 vehicles with LS based engines:
2001 Silverado - LM7 5.3L - 170K
2008 Z06 - LS7 7.0L - 17K
2012 CTS-V wagon - LSA 6.2L - 32K
Since I only drive one vehicle at a time, they each have a tendency to sit for varrying amounts of time. The Z06 is a play vehicle and only comes out on the weekends every week to 6 weeks.
The truck was my DD for 9 years, it was stolen back in February and recovered. now I drive it every day for a week or two and then swtich off with the CTS-V
The CTS-V was supposed to be the replacement for the truck, but I love my truck too much. So I alternate every week or two driving the two vehicles.
All vehicles are filled with M1 5W-30
Long Term Storage:
I'm getting concern about the truck, I'm getting some noise out of the engine and it seems to be getting worse. I was told a main bearing was probably going bad back in December, but I have between 40-60 PSI of oil pressure. In any manner I am getting a knocking noise. Not mention I am at times getting a "gear whine" noise, that i don't remember before the truck was stolen.
In any manner I love the truck but I am thinking about putting it into long term storage until my son gets older and we can work on it together. I estimate it will take $7-8K of investment in a new engine,trans and transfer case rebuild to get it where I want.
What would I need to do to prep it for 10+ years of storage. I assume when I get it out I would need to hit it with a pressure oiler.
Short term storage:
What is the longest an LS engine can sit (a week, 2, or etc) before I need to worry about causing allot of damage consistently on start up?
Is there anything I can do to minimize damage damage on a week to 6 week storage time frame? I've seen pressure oilers for these cars and using it every time I want to start up the Z seems like a pain in the ***.
I have 3 vehicles with LS based engines:
2001 Silverado - LM7 5.3L - 170K
2008 Z06 - LS7 7.0L - 17K
2012 CTS-V wagon - LSA 6.2L - 32K
Since I only drive one vehicle at a time, they each have a tendency to sit for varrying amounts of time. The Z06 is a play vehicle and only comes out on the weekends every week to 6 weeks.
The truck was my DD for 9 years, it was stolen back in February and recovered. now I drive it every day for a week or two and then swtich off with the CTS-V
The CTS-V was supposed to be the replacement for the truck, but I love my truck too much. So I alternate every week or two driving the two vehicles.
All vehicles are filled with M1 5W-30
Long Term Storage:
I'm getting concern about the truck, I'm getting some noise out of the engine and it seems to be getting worse. I was told a main bearing was probably going bad back in December, but I have between 40-60 PSI of oil pressure. In any manner I am getting a knocking noise. Not mention I am at times getting a "gear whine" noise, that i don't remember before the truck was stolen.
In any manner I love the truck but I am thinking about putting it into long term storage until my son gets older and we can work on it together. I estimate it will take $7-8K of investment in a new engine,trans and transfer case rebuild to get it where I want.
What would I need to do to prep it for 10+ years of storage. I assume when I get it out I would need to hit it with a pressure oiler.
Short term storage:
What is the longest an LS engine can sit (a week, 2, or etc) before I need to worry about causing allot of damage consistently on start up?
Is there anything I can do to minimize damage damage on a week to 6 week storage time frame? I've seen pressure oilers for these cars and using it every time I want to start up the Z seems like a pain in the ***.
09-08-2014, 11:01 PM
#2
Long stoage I couldnt help much, but figure remove tires, remove brake rotors and pads or just the pads so they don't get lot rot. But then I'd really worry about ANY seal on the truck, be it main seals, tranny seals, rear diff axle seals and front axle seals. Without movement and no oil going around for that long, they will just dry up and leak pretty soon after you start driving it again.
On the short storage, I'd just unkook the battery and what not, bump up air pressure if it's going to sit over a couple weeks to prevent some flat spots, though they go away very soon after driving it. It would take a LONG time for all the oil on the main bearings and rod bearings to drain all the way back down into the pan. Me personally I'd never bat an eye at starting a car up thats sat for several weeks to 1-2 months, if it say longer maybe I would just disconnect the fuel system and just crank it over for 20 seconds to get oil everywhere first.
On the short storage, I'd just unkook the battery and what not, bump up air pressure if it's going to sit over a couple weeks to prevent some flat spots, though they go away very soon after driving it. It would take a LONG time for all the oil on the main bearings and rod bearings to drain all the way back down into the pan. Me personally I'd never bat an eye at starting a car up thats sat for several weeks to 1-2 months, if it say longer maybe I would just disconnect the fuel system and just crank it over for 20 seconds to get oil everywhere first.
09-08-2014, 11:51 PM
#3
Why couldn't you install some sort of inline device in the dry sump oil system to move a little around before cranking?? I personally would just snap the coil connectors loose, spin it over, then reconnect and go play!! Battery tenders save headache even on cars (or boats) that just sit for a few weeks at a time. I wouldn't worry too much about tires, just make sure they're heat cycled a couple times when you do get to take it out. Jack stands are the best bet though, just a pain to worry with every time.
On your truck. Fill it with some heavy oil (20-50 or more) and run it up to temp, disconnect fuel line and run it dry. Pull the spark plugs, put an ounce or two of trans fluid down the plug holes. Fill the trans and transfer case to the top (till fluid comes out of vent) remove the battery completely, wheels, and possibly brakes if stored somewhere humid. Put desiccant cans/packs all through the interior as well as a bag of charcoal under the back seat. Count on flushing every fluid in it before it's driven again due to water intrusion from condensation. If possible, have some way to circulate air through the cab. Don't leave it sealed up. I've seen guys pull the cab vents in the back and attach a shop vac on a timer (if there's power where it's being stored) it's not much but you'd be surprised the difference it makes if the vehicle sits for even a year.
We used to store vehicles for a year or more for deployments, these are some of the things we did.
On your truck. Fill it with some heavy oil (20-50 or more) and run it up to temp, disconnect fuel line and run it dry. Pull the spark plugs, put an ounce or two of trans fluid down the plug holes. Fill the trans and transfer case to the top (till fluid comes out of vent) remove the battery completely, wheels, and possibly brakes if stored somewhere humid. Put desiccant cans/packs all through the interior as well as a bag of charcoal under the back seat. Count on flushing every fluid in it before it's driven again due to water intrusion from condensation. If possible, have some way to circulate air through the cab. Don't leave it sealed up. I've seen guys pull the cab vents in the back and attach a shop vac on a timer (if there's power where it's being stored) it's not much but you'd be surprised the difference it makes if the vehicle sits for even a year.
We used to store vehicles for a year or more for deployments, these are some of the things we did.
09-09-2014, 03:04 AM
#4
Long term storage.
I would run some type of product like stay bill to lube the injectors.
I would pull the Tank and drain it completely as well as the fuel rails to remove standing fuel.
Otherwise you will need to start the Vehicle at least every few months and put some fresh gas and additive in it.
I would put fresh Fluids in every other system. Especially the brake's. ALso lubricate anything that has a lube point on it.
Moisture will make it's way into everything so If at all possible try to cycle all the systems every few months.
If possible Elevate the vehicle
I would run some type of product like stay bill to lube the injectors.
I would pull the Tank and drain it completely as well as the fuel rails to remove standing fuel.
Otherwise you will need to start the Vehicle at least every few months and put some fresh gas and additive in it.
I would put fresh Fluids in every other system. Especially the brake's. ALso lubricate anything that has a lube point on it.
Moisture will make it's way into everything so If at all possible try to cycle all the systems every few months.
If possible Elevate the vehicle
09-10-2014, 04:56 PM
#5
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Long stoage I couldnt help much, but figure remove tires, remove brake rotors and pads or just the pads so they don't get lot rot. But then I'd really worry about ANY seal on the truck, be it main seals, tranny seals, rear diff axle seals and front axle seals. Without movement and no oil going around for that long, they will just dry up and leak pretty soon after you start driving it again.
On the short storage, I'd just unkook the battery and what not, bump up air pressure if it's going to sit over a couple weeks to prevent some flat spots, though they go away very soon after driving it. It would take a LONG time for all the oil on the main bearings and rod bearings to drain all the way back down into the pan. Me personally I'd never bat an eye at starting a car up thats sat for several weeks to 1-2 months, if it say longer maybe I would just disconnect the fuel system and just crank it over for 20 seconds to get oil everywhere first.
On the short storage, I'd just unkook the battery and what not, bump up air pressure if it's going to sit over a couple weeks to prevent some flat spots, though they go away very soon after driving it. It would take a LONG time for all the oil on the main bearings and rod bearings to drain all the way back down into the pan. Me personally I'd never bat an eye at starting a car up thats sat for several weeks to 1-2 months, if it say longer maybe I would just disconnect the fuel system and just crank it over for 20 seconds to get oil everywhere first.
I would probably put it on jack stands and do everything you listed.
is the reason for turning it over a few times without the coil packs hooked up vs. just starting it have to do with the stress on the bearings from the combustion process?
What go me going down this question was once the truck sat from may to july and I started it up, it seemed to make allot more noise than normal for the first 15-30 seconds, noises I didn't notice as much after a week of sitting.
Would an oil stabilizer help retain oil in the bearings?
Originally Posted by silver-mod-o
Why couldn't you install some sort of inline device in the dry sump oil system to move a little around before cranking?? I personally would just snap the coil connectors loose, spin it over, then reconnect and go play!! Battery tenders save headache even on cars (or boats) that just sit for a few weeks at a time. I wouldn't worry too much about tires, just make sure they're heat cycled a couple times when you do get to take it out. Jack stands are the best bet though, just a pain to worry with every time.
On your truck. Fill it with some heavy oil (20-50 or more) and run it up to temp, disconnect fuel line and run it dry. Pull the spark plugs, put an ounce or two of trans fluid down the plug holes. Fill the trans and transfer case to the top (till fluid comes out of vent) remove the battery completely, wheels, and possibly brakes if stored somewhere humid. Put desiccant cans/packs all through the interior as well as a bag of charcoal under the back seat. Count on flushing every fluid in it before it's driven again due to water intrusion from condensation. If possible, have some way to circulate air through the cab. Don't leave it sealed up. I've seen guys pull the cab vents in the back and attach a shop vac on a timer (if there's power where it's being stored) it's not much but you'd be surprised the difference it makes if the vehicle sits for even a year.
We used to store vehicles for a year or more for deployments, these are some of the things we did.
On your truck. Fill it with some heavy oil (20-50 or more) and run it up to temp, disconnect fuel line and run it dry. Pull the spark plugs, put an ounce or two of trans fluid down the plug holes. Fill the trans and transfer case to the top (till fluid comes out of vent) remove the battery completely, wheels, and possibly brakes if stored somewhere humid. Put desiccant cans/packs all through the interior as well as a bag of charcoal under the back seat. Count on flushing every fluid in it before it's driven again due to water intrusion from condensation. If possible, have some way to circulate air through the cab. Don't leave it sealed up. I've seen guys pull the cab vents in the back and attach a shop vac on a timer (if there's power where it's being stored) it's not much but you'd be surprised the difference it makes if the vehicle sits for even a year.
We used to store vehicles for a year or more for deployments, these are some of the things we did.
thanks for the other advice, the truck would be in the Texas hill country, so not too humid but not arid either.
The biggest issue i've run into storing it currently in my in-laws garage is the smell, it has a tendency to soak up the smell of the garage and it isn't pleasant.
Originally Posted by 1FastBrick
Long term storage.
I would run some type of product like stay bill to lube the injectors.
I would pull the Tank and drain it completely as well as the fuel rails to remove standing fuel.
Otherwise you will need to start the Vehicle at least every few months and put some fresh gas and additive in it.
I would put fresh Fluids in every other system. Especially the brake's. ALso lubricate anything that has a lube point on it.
Moisture will make it's way into everything so If at all possible try to cycle all the systems every few months.
If possible Elevate the vehicle
I would run some type of product like stay bill to lube the injectors.
I would pull the Tank and drain it completely as well as the fuel rails to remove standing fuel.
Otherwise you will need to start the Vehicle at least every few months and put some fresh gas and additive in it.
I would put fresh Fluids in every other system. Especially the brake's. ALso lubricate anything that has a lube point on it.
Moisture will make it's way into everything so If at all possible try to cycle all the systems every few months.
If possible Elevate the vehicle
I will use a fuel additive for sure but it seems it is also important to move the truck when I go up and visit (assuming that is where it would be housed and not just let it sit)
09-10-2014, 05:14 PM
#6
I would say the engine noise on start up that one time you let it sit for a couple months was the lifters/pushrods/rocker clatter because the oil will drain out of those first. It's pretty common for that to happen.
There is that and the starter only cranks at maybe a few hundred rpm and won't surge right up 1200-1400 if not slightly higher on first start up. It's alot easier the motor to just use the starter run the oil pump and gets things going before you let her rip. That would also reduce valvetrain clatter on start up aswell if it sat for a while.
Is the reason for turning it over a few times without the coil packs hooked up vs. just starting it have to do with the stress on the bearings from the combustion process?
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09-10-2014, 06:46 PM
#9
In my eyes your rich lol. Truck check, ZO6 Vette check, CTS-V wagon check. All my favorite dream cars. As for storage i dunno my truck now sits up to a month sitting still, all i do is disconect battery put 93 fuel in it and when i start it i let it warm up the rip the crap outta it.
09-10-2014, 06:54 PM
#10
I've done two years in michigan with my truck sitting for 5-6 months- no starting - all I do is disconnect battery and make sure the tank is full so it doesn't condinsate. (Highest octane I could find unleaded) -
Dead spots in tires yea, but everything works no noises
Dead spots in tires yea, but everything works no noises