Need Help understanding Big Block options
03-11-2015, 07:47 PM
#32
run a compression test. if it tests good, run it!
replace the valve seals, crank seal and rear main seal. and any others that might be leaking. I wouldn't even crack the heads off of that motor if compression checks. that's the point of junkyard motors. cheaper than rebuilding and probably more dependable than any rebuilt unit. you have an entire engine for the cost of a new cam. don't blow the budget now
do you know how to tune with HPtuners (doubt it)
tuning a carb is so easy a caveman can do it. tuning efi requires a 4 year degree and you will still go cross eyed with how much information you need to learn. the truck in my sig is a carbed 10 second N/A truck that gets around 20mpg. I have around 1 hour of tune work between the carb and ignitions system (probably more like 30 minutes). I'm sure EFI can get better mileage, but I didn't build the truck to be a gas sipper. if your truck came with pre-installed EFI, I would probably say stick with EFI for the cost.
replace the valve seals, crank seal and rear main seal. and any others that might be leaking. I wouldn't even crack the heads off of that motor if compression checks. that's the point of junkyard motors. cheaper than rebuilding and probably more dependable than any rebuilt unit. you have an entire engine for the cost of a new cam. don't blow the budget now
do you know how to tune with HPtuners (doubt it)
tuning a carb is so easy a caveman can do it. tuning efi requires a 4 year degree and you will still go cross eyed with how much information you need to learn. the truck in my sig is a carbed 10 second N/A truck that gets around 20mpg. I have around 1 hour of tune work between the carb and ignitions system (probably more like 30 minutes). I'm sure EFI can get better mileage, but I didn't build the truck to be a gas sipper. if your truck came with pre-installed EFI, I would probably say stick with EFI for the cost.
Last edited by TXsilverado; 03-11-2015 at 07:53 PM.
03-11-2015, 07:51 PM
#33
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run a compression test. if it tests good, run it!
replace the valve seals, crank seal and rear main seal. and any others that might be leaking. I wouldn't even crack the heads off of that motor if compression checks. that's the point of junkyard motors. cheaper than rebuilding and probably more dependable than any rebuilt unit. you have an entire engine for the cost of a new cam. don't blow the budget now
do you know how to tune with HPtuners (doubt it)
tuning a carb is so easy a caveman can do it. tuning efi requires a 4 year degree and you will still go cross eyed with how much information you need to learn.
replace the valve seals, crank seal and rear main seal. and any others that might be leaking. I wouldn't even crack the heads off of that motor if compression checks. that's the point of junkyard motors. cheaper than rebuilding and probably more dependable than any rebuilt unit. you have an entire engine for the cost of a new cam. don't blow the budget now
do you know how to tune with HPtuners (doubt it)
tuning a carb is so easy a caveman can do it. tuning efi requires a 4 year degree and you will still go cross eyed with how much information you need to learn.
Just so happens I do have a 4 year degree in EE and then a Master in Electromagnetics on top of that. I am very familiar with tuning FI. I am just not familiar with the GM specific units. I can wire a MS in my sleep.
03-11-2015, 07:52 PM
#34
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It is however my understanding that HP tuners basically gives you unlimited access to the ECU, get rid of the automatic trans ****, emissions, ect... right?
03-26-2015, 10:19 AM
#38
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1. Texas Speed is down the road. For $750 I can have my LM7 heads ported, LS1 2" valves put in, and have them reassembled with new seals, valve cut, ect. I can buy a set of stock rebuild LS1 heads for around $450. $750 seems a lot, but I don't have too many options here in Austin. What is the best play?
2. I want to stock NA. I would like to add the 4.8l flat top pistons for a compression bump. Am I going to run into any issues?
3. Building the "right" way. I plan on adding:
-LS2 timing chain
-LS6 ported oil Pump
-ARP head bolts
-ARP crank bolts
-Comp Cams trunion kit (I have this on my DD after bearings failed on 1500 mile road trip).
Am I missing any obvious upgrade?
4.Cam. I am still doing research on this but I want something that sounds great, is very aggressive. in a 3k# car I am not worried about low end grunt. Any suggestions? As well as valvetrain adjustment that needs to be made? I have no decided on springs yet either.
5. Vic JR single plane seems like the way to go. thoughts?
2. I want to stock NA. I would like to add the 4.8l flat top pistons for a compression bump. Am I going to run into any issues?
3. Building the "right" way. I plan on adding:
-LS2 timing chain
-LS6 ported oil Pump
-ARP head bolts
-ARP crank bolts
-Comp Cams trunion kit (I have this on my DD after bearings failed on 1500 mile road trip).
Am I missing any obvious upgrade?
4.Cam. I am still doing research on this but I want something that sounds great, is very aggressive. in a 3k# car I am not worried about low end grunt. Any suggestions? As well as valvetrain adjustment that needs to be made? I have no decided on springs yet either.
5. Vic JR single plane seems like the way to go. thoughts?
03-26-2015, 10:57 AM
#39
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It usually cost us around 5K to buy and build our 396-454 motors for the camaros and chevelles. However, we have to pay a pretty penny for date matched stuff and building to spec like back in the day. I would say it cost us about 3K to buy all the new parts for the bare blocks. SBC and BBC parts tend to be on the cheaper side compared to Ls motors.
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