Coolant in oil question
01-25-2016, 11:08 AM
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Coolant in oil question
I have searched an havnent found what I'm looking for so far. An have only had one person respond to my questions but looking for more info.
I have a 2008 2500 HD with a 6L VVT but NO active fuel management. Cast iron block. LY6 engine.
I just did an oil change the other day and there was a few drops of coolant at the start of the oil coming out of the drain plug. Just moved it really slow to see what came out first. Orange Dex Cool. Only 62K miles on the truck. Bought truck with 4 miles on it. No milkshake looking engine oil.
I’m thinking OK time for a head gasket job. Cant think of any other place to get coolant in oil and NO oil in coolant. Coolant maybe 1 ½ to 2 inch low in 8 years.
Asked another guy what he thought an he came up with the GM tablets to seal the cooling system. I don't have any experience with using this product and thought I would see what other people thought. Is this a good way to go? I'm not selling it anytime soon and want it to last. This might be a fix or a band-aid. Don't want to add anything that could cause issues down the road. What do you think?
An also since I'm in there.
1. Would you resurface the heads an have pressure checked or just clean them up and put back together? Haven’t seen any info for cracked heads on the 6L. Its never been over heated.
2. What head gaskets are best? GM or aftermarket gaskets? Stock engine haven't thought of doing any mods guess depends on $$ an whats the benefits.
3. Would you replace the lifters since the heads are off? I have seen one go bad an take out the cam and have heard of some problems with them just not sure.
4. Would you update the rockers so you don’t lose the needle bearings? If so what brand?
5. Is there anything else you would do or look at? Since everything on top is apart.
So far this is the only problem I’ve had with it. Last time I changed oil was in late 2014 but only had almost 3k miles on it. Use Mobile 1 Yes I know should change every year or twice a year. Depending on who you ask. Don't drive it a lot but when I do I'd go for being reliable. Since I normally drive it in the winter and don't want to be stranded some where.
I would just like to work on it once. Don’t want to have problems later with lifters or rockers or head gasket sealing later.
If I'm asking in the wrong forum Please point me in the right direction.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
I have a 2008 2500 HD with a 6L VVT but NO active fuel management. Cast iron block. LY6 engine.
I just did an oil change the other day and there was a few drops of coolant at the start of the oil coming out of the drain plug. Just moved it really slow to see what came out first. Orange Dex Cool. Only 62K miles on the truck. Bought truck with 4 miles on it. No milkshake looking engine oil.
I’m thinking OK time for a head gasket job. Cant think of any other place to get coolant in oil and NO oil in coolant. Coolant maybe 1 ½ to 2 inch low in 8 years.
Asked another guy what he thought an he came up with the GM tablets to seal the cooling system. I don't have any experience with using this product and thought I would see what other people thought. Is this a good way to go? I'm not selling it anytime soon and want it to last. This might be a fix or a band-aid. Don't want to add anything that could cause issues down the road. What do you think?
An also since I'm in there.
1. Would you resurface the heads an have pressure checked or just clean them up and put back together? Haven’t seen any info for cracked heads on the 6L. Its never been over heated.
2. What head gaskets are best? GM or aftermarket gaskets? Stock engine haven't thought of doing any mods guess depends on $$ an whats the benefits.
3. Would you replace the lifters since the heads are off? I have seen one go bad an take out the cam and have heard of some problems with them just not sure.
4. Would you update the rockers so you don’t lose the needle bearings? If so what brand?
5. Is there anything else you would do or look at? Since everything on top is apart.
So far this is the only problem I’ve had with it. Last time I changed oil was in late 2014 but only had almost 3k miles on it. Use Mobile 1 Yes I know should change every year or twice a year. Depending on who you ask. Don't drive it a lot but when I do I'd go for being reliable. Since I normally drive it in the winter and don't want to be stranded some where.
I would just like to work on it once. Don’t want to have problems later with lifters or rockers or head gasket sealing later.
If I'm asking in the wrong forum Please point me in the right direction.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
01-25-2016, 11:25 AM
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Well since it was Orange I'm pretty sure its coolant.
Ive done oil samples in the past for 3 years when it was new an its always had trace amounts of coolant but the dealer wouldn't do anything about it. Now I can see it. I'm pretty sure it is coolant.
Ive done oil samples in the past for 3 years when it was new an its always had trace amounts of coolant but the dealer wouldn't do anything about it. Now I can see it. I'm pretty sure it is coolant.
01-25-2016, 11:30 AM
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I have experience working on pretty much everything just don't have a lot of it with cylinder head leaks on a 6L. Just haven't found much information on it an thought I'd ask some people with more than myself.
I'll be doing all the work myself. Just want to go the right direction so I don't have problems later.
I'll be doing all the work myself. Just want to go the right direction so I don't have problems later.
01-25-2016, 11:58 AM
#5
I would start by pulling the valve cover off. If you see signs of coolant around the head bolt's like the early 4.8 and 5.3L then you're on the right track with the heads. It's not Common on the 6.0L but that's where the join the casting and they can leak over time there after many heat cycles.
If not, I have seen 2 other issue's you can look into.
1. The blocks are not machined truly flat from end to end. Remember this is production line and close enough is usually good enough to get it out the door. I had one and we actually had to Glue the Head gasket layers to get a good seal. In our case it was physically leaking in the front of the head between the block and head. As well as into the combustion chamber. I have a block like this and it did not clean up The machinist thought his decking machine was Bad and rebuilt it. They checked again after and discovered the core shift/ machine work was off to one side. To machine the deck properly, the pistons would end up approximately +.020 out of the hole. Factory is usually in the range of +.005 to +.008 out of the hole.
2. On aluminum Blocks the casting is porous enough that it seeps through the casting. Usually It's an Oil Leak that can not be repaired or sealed.
If not, I have seen 2 other issue's you can look into.
1. The blocks are not machined truly flat from end to end. Remember this is production line and close enough is usually good enough to get it out the door. I had one and we actually had to Glue the Head gasket layers to get a good seal. In our case it was physically leaking in the front of the head between the block and head. As well as into the combustion chamber. I have a block like this and it did not clean up The machinist thought his decking machine was Bad and rebuilt it. They checked again after and discovered the core shift/ machine work was off to one side. To machine the deck properly, the pistons would end up approximately +.020 out of the hole. Factory is usually in the range of +.005 to +.008 out of the hole.
2. On aluminum Blocks the casting is porous enough that it seeps through the casting. Usually It's an Oil Leak that can not be repaired or sealed.
01-25-2016, 12:34 PM
#7
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On oil coolers they are under the same pressure as the oil system, correct? You can't get coolant that is at 15psi pushed into a 40psi oil system can you?
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01-25-2016, 02:17 PM
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I would start by pulling the valve cover off. If you see signs of coolant around the head bolt's like the early 4.8 and 5.3L then you're on the right track with the heads. It's not Common on the 6.0L but that's where the join the casting and they can leak over time there after many heat cycles.
If not, I have seen 2 other issue's you can look into.
1. The blocks are not machined truly flat from end to end. Remember this is production line and close enough is usually good enough to get it out the door. I had one and we actually had to Glue the Head gasket layers to get a good seal. In our case it was physically leaking in the front of the head between the block and head. As well as into the combustion chamber. I have a block like this and it did not clean up The machinist thought his decking machine was Bad and rebuilt it. They checked again after and discovered the core shift/ machine work was off to one side. To machine the deck properly, the pistons would end up approximately +.020 out of the hole. Factory is usually in the range of +.005 to +.008 out of the hole.
2. On aluminum Blocks the casting is porous enough that it seeps through the casting. Usually It's an Oil Leak that can not be repaired or sealed.
If not, I have seen 2 other issue's you can look into.
1. The blocks are not machined truly flat from end to end. Remember this is production line and close enough is usually good enough to get it out the door. I had one and we actually had to Glue the Head gasket layers to get a good seal. In our case it was physically leaking in the front of the head between the block and head. As well as into the combustion chamber. I have a block like this and it did not clean up The machinist thought his decking machine was Bad and rebuilt it. They checked again after and discovered the core shift/ machine work was off to one side. To machine the deck properly, the pistons would end up approximately +.020 out of the hole. Factory is usually in the range of +.005 to +.008 out of the hole.
2. On aluminum Blocks the casting is porous enough that it seeps through the casting. Usually It's an Oil Leak that can not be repaired or sealed.
Thanks for everyones input on this. I had not thought of the block being machined incorrectly.
But since it was new it has had a very small amount of coolant in the oil since it was new I would find it hard to have a cooler issue. But you never know. Ive seen bad new parts.
There is no oil in the overflow bottle. So I'm leaning toward a head sealing issue weather its the gasket or now maybe a problem with the block.
I talked with another guy an he was thinking the felpro gaskets may seal a little better than the MLS gaskets. Any thoughts on this? For anyone who has used them.
If there was a machining problem I would hope to see where its leaking a put a little sealant in that area just in case it is a problem with the block deck.
Sounds like with the lack of information or No one saying anything about the GM coolant tablets they must not be that great of a deal?
No such thing as a head job in a can or tablet.
I probably wont start working on it for a few months till it get warmer. Just in case I need some machine work. Then I can drive my car around.
If anyone comes up with anything else I will defiantly be watching for any other info.
Thanks.
