ABS module stuck ON??? HELP!
#1
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ABS module stuck ON??? HELP!
2001 1500 Silverado.
One day I go out to the truck and the batter is dead...hmm weird.
Well turns out the ABS was activated or something of that nature(stuck closed/open) and killed the battery.
Now we are having a hell of a time trying to find relays etc to figure out how to fix it. The extended warranty said "sorry"
Now let's not go off and bash warranties I need some help. Any ideas where the relay for this thing is or does it even have one? Not the fuses...
thanx
One day I go out to the truck and the batter is dead...hmm weird.
Well turns out the ABS was activated or something of that nature(stuck closed/open) and killed the battery.
Now we are having a hell of a time trying to find relays etc to figure out how to fix it. The extended warranty said "sorry"
Now let's not go off and bash warranties I need some help. Any ideas where the relay for this thing is or does it even have one? Not the fuses...
thanx
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Yes, it is a fuse. Located in the panel under the hood on the driver's side. It's one of the big ones. You can also crawl under the driver's side frame rail and just unplug the phucker. Mine's been out for almost a year.
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Originally Posted by guadofreak
So the fix is a new ABS module I guess?
ABS DIY to save some big $$$$
It´s been a while since my last post still bot my truck
just haven´t done much to/with it lately.
I don´t know who is subscribing to the chevytrucks group @yahoogroups.com but I thought I should share this with you as how to fix your EBCM (ABS) module if you have some soldering skills past that from soldering pipes etc.
If not there are some guys that will do this job for you for $100 plus shipping: http://www.circuitsolutions.info/
But here the DIY version:
"When you look at the control board, you have your 12V input and 12V out to
the small motor. The MOSFET is the larger one close to this 12V out. The
one that was in mine was a Philips BUK9608. I replaced it with an
International Rectifier IRL2505S. You can order them form DigiKey.com part
number IRL2505S-ND.
Replacing it is the easy part, its getting to this guy that is hard part.
From the factory, the circuit board is dropped in the housing and then
soldered in. So you will have to unsolder the 12V power pins, the 12V power
pins out to motor, and the sensor connector pins (about 10-12 pin connector)
before you can remove the circuit board from the housing.
If you go through all this effort to fix the problem, do yourself a favor
and solder a diode across the "12V out to the small motor" (like a
FR302DICT-ND from DigiKey) to protect the MOSFET (band towards the positive
side)."
#7
Having problem with where to solder diode
Or you can try this I have is saved off another board.
ABS DIY to save some big $$$$
It´s been a while since my last post still bot my truck
just haven´t done much to/with it lately.
I don´t know who is subscribing to the chevytrucks group @yahoogroups.com but I thought I should share this with you as how to fix your EBCM (ABS) module if you have some soldering skills past that from soldering pipes etc.
If not there are some guys that will do this job for you for $100 plus shipping: http://www.circuitsolutions.info/
But here the DIY version:
"When you look at the control board, you have your 12V input and 12V out to
the small motor. The MOSFET is the larger one close to this 12V out. The
one that was in mine was a Philips BUK9608. I replaced it with an
International Rectifier IRL2505S. You can order them form DigiKey.com part
number IRL2505S-ND.
Replacing it is the easy part, its getting to this guy that is hard part.
From the factory, the circuit board is dropped in the housing and then
soldered in. So you will have to unsolder the 12V power pins, the 12V power
pins out to motor, and the sensor connector pins (about 10-12 pin connector)
before you can remove the circuit board from the housing.
If you go through all this effort to fix the problem, do yourself a favor
and solder a diode across the "12V out to the small motor" (like a
FR302DICT-ND from DigiKey) to protect the MOSFET (band towards the positive
side)."
ABS DIY to save some big $$$$
It´s been a while since my last post still bot my truck
just haven´t done much to/with it lately.
I don´t know who is subscribing to the chevytrucks group @yahoogroups.com but I thought I should share this with you as how to fix your EBCM (ABS) module if you have some soldering skills past that from soldering pipes etc.
If not there are some guys that will do this job for you for $100 plus shipping: http://www.circuitsolutions.info/
But here the DIY version:
"When you look at the control board, you have your 12V input and 12V out to
the small motor. The MOSFET is the larger one close to this 12V out. The
one that was in mine was a Philips BUK9608. I replaced it with an
International Rectifier IRL2505S. You can order them form DigiKey.com part
number IRL2505S-ND.
Replacing it is the easy part, its getting to this guy that is hard part.
From the factory, the circuit board is dropped in the housing and then
soldered in. So you will have to unsolder the 12V power pins, the 12V power
pins out to motor, and the sensor connector pins (about 10-12 pin connector)
before you can remove the circuit board from the housing.
If you go through all this effort to fix the problem, do yourself a favor
and solder a diode across the "12V out to the small motor" (like a
FR302DICT-ND from DigiKey) to protect the MOSFET (band towards the positive
side)."
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