BkackOut07

Im picking up a 2004 5.3 to rebuild. Im new to chevrolet gas performance, been burning dollars in diesel performance for years and ford gassers so bare with me. Im a bit overwhelmed with all of the information and could really use some point blank information/suggestions.

Its going in a 2002 avalanche.

Main Bearings- federal Mogul or clevite p for stock crank??
Rod Bearings- H or stick with P??
Machine shop provided cam bushing
Bore block for standard size LS1 flat top pistons
Mahle or Sealed Power Piston rings??
Balance rotating assembly
Valve Job
Will a standard oil pump suffice or high volume highly recommended??
Trunion Upgrade??
LS7 Lifters
TSP low lift 212/218 because i do not want to change springs every 30k miles
Springs to match the cam
Pushrods
Stock rockers
Valve Seals, Locks, retainers- I suppose retainers will depend on low or hi lift cam choice
Long tube Headers

1FastBrick

iTrader: (17)

You can't really zero deck these. The 5.3L iron blocks already have the piston out of the hole. Usually between +.005 and +.008. but every block is different. I believe the factory 5.7L aluminum block is .010 taller so the piston is just inside the hole.

As far as compression. You will be around 10.5:1 with a flat top piston and a 706/862 head with the factory 61cc chamber and a factory .052 MLS gasket.

You can do a few things.

Either get a replacement set of new LS1 pistons in std bore, or find some nice used pistons and have the block finished for them.

Or you can get over sized 4.8L flat top pistons and bore just what you need.

It depends on your goals.

BkackOut07

As far as the pistons go ill end up doing whatever ones i can find cheapest as i continue to shop for a good used set. Whether is be Ls1 or 4.8 pistons. Must have been old threads regarding the 4.8 piston wrist pin being in a different location than the 5.3 as i just found a thread that says they are infact the same location.

I plan to do springs to support no bigger than a 220 duration cam not sure on low vs high lift with the flat tops, valve job, headers, the boring and pistons, and put it in a 2002 avalanche daily driver. No big power, just a little bump in performance over stock for the most part.

Will I need to fly cut the flat tops if i do a high lift cam under the 220 range on a 110 or 112?

1FastBrick

iTrader: (17)

You should not need to fly cut.

I think I have some used press pin style 4.8 pistons if that's the route you want to go.

BkackOut07

I updated my potential list to a more thorough one.

Wolftrk99

iTrader: (5)

The springs should come with seals, locks, and retainers... At least the sets i have used all have! Dont forget new lifter trays. The trunnion upgrade is a good idea, have yet to do one myself but eventually i will on all 3 of my vehicles. i have a melling 10296 in the 6.0 in my 99, just for peace of mind! Sounds like you have a stout little build planned!!

Beatdown Z

iTrader: (18)

I've heard Stock48 recommend Federal Mogul/Sealed Power 2555A rod bearings and 7298MA Main bearings for stock crank and rod builds, and that dude knows his ****.

I've also used King bearings with success. Enginetech/Summit Racing sell repackaged Kings at a lower cost.

Wolftrk99

iTrader: (5)

I used enginetech bearings and rings in both of my builds.... Fwiw!

BkackOut07

i was curious about the engine tech, seemed to good to be true

Wolftrk99

iTrader: (5)

Had really good luck with them and they are actually damn near oe quality...fel pro are good too, but they try to improve on everything, whether it needs it or not!!

While i am thinking about it and i know you are probably a way off from this point, but when you are tobthe point of starting to reintall the oil pan and timing and rear covers, install the timing cover and rear main housing first and loosely install the bolts then install the oil pan, tightening the cover to the pan to help seat them before torquing them down!!! Have seen way too many rear cover/oil pan mating leaks, and a few broken oil pans from misinstallation!!!