Notices
GM Engine & Exhaust Performance EFI | GEN I/GEN II/GEN III/GEN IV Engines |Small Block | Big Block |
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

5.3 crankshaft end play remedy

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-12-2014, 08:12 PM
  #1  
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
 
00Silv4.8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Mesa AZ
Posts: 3,278
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default 5.3 crankshaft end play remedy

Long story short I had to pull my 5.3 out of my 80 crew cab only to find a hell of a lot of end play in the crank to accompany my zero oil pressure issue.

Is there any way to get the end play back in spec or am I looking at buying a crank, or can I remedy this with a different thrust bearing?

Not the best way but I'm well over .020 end play with a feeler gauge. I would venture as far to say 1/16" if not a hair more.
Old 12-12-2014, 09:03 PM
  #2  
Custm2500's Rude Friend
iTrader: (17)
 
1FastBrick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: JunkYard
Posts: 14,326
Received 761 Likes on 630 Posts
Default

You really need to inspect the bearings and measure the crank.

If it beat the thrust on the bearings up, It may be possible to have your crank serviced and replace the bearings.

Since its out, you should inspect the cam bearings to see if you spun one as it seems to be a common issue when you loose oil pressure.

Most likely the oil pump bypass is stuck open too.
The following users liked this post:
HomerSimpson (01-09-2022)
Old 12-12-2014, 11:57 PM
  #3  
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
 
00Silv4.8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Mesa AZ
Posts: 3,278
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

The filter bypass 'barbell' was the exact reason I pulled it, and it was whooped. I got cam bearings as well as a CYA thing since it was out. I rebuilt this motor already so everything was new as far as bearings, less cams.

However I cannot say for sure if it didn't have this much play prior to me actually putting it in the truck. My concern is that I've got a junk motor or crank.
If there's a possibility to get say an 'oversized' thrust I will get them coming tomorrow. Just need to know for sure. Like I said, it's every bit of a 1/16", if anyone can verify it should only be .020 or less, I need a solution.

I have seen the exciter ring is recommended replacement (got away with not doing it in the past) just wondering if it's pressed in a manner to take up the tolerance.
Old 12-13-2014, 12:14 AM
  #4  
Custm2500's Rude Friend
iTrader: (17)
 
1FastBrick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: JunkYard
Posts: 14,326
Received 761 Likes on 630 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 00Silv4.8
The filter bypass 'barbell' was the exact reason I pulled it, and it was whooped. I got cam bearings as well as a CYA thing since it was out. I rebuilt this motor already so everything was new as far as bearings, less cams.

However I cannot say for sure if it didn't have this much play prior to me actually putting it in the truck. My concern is that I've got a junk motor or crank.
If there's a possibility to get say an 'oversized' thrust I will get them coming tomorrow. Just need to know for sure. Like I said, it's every bit of a 1/16", if anyone can verify it should only be .020 or less, I need a solution.

I have seen the exciter ring is recommended replacement (got away with not doing it in the past) just wondering if it's pressed in a manner to take up the tolerance.
1/16 is .0625

Factory spec is .0015 to .0078.

There is a spec on the Journal. They give an actual Thrust spec But you need to inspect the crank to see if this area is damaged as well as take an actual measurement.

Look at the bearings. If the thrust surface is wiped out on the bearing its probably the bearing that's no good.

The Crankshaft thrust wall measurement is 1.029 - 1.032 Maximum
The following users liked this post:
HomerSimpson (01-09-2022)
Old 12-13-2014, 02:08 AM
  #5  
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
 
00Silv4.8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Mesa AZ
Posts: 3,278
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Excellent, 1fastbrick you have always been nothing short of helpful. I'll get actual measurements tomorrow.

For what it's worth it appears the play was just enough to start grazing the front counter weight as well as the counter weight one behind the thrust bearing.

As well as just before oil pressure **** the bed I strated fighting a CKP problem, even after a sensor replacement. This started roughly 300mi after rebuild and road worthy.
Also if it helps the engine has roughly 600-700 mi on it if I remember right. It's been sitting a couple months out of anger.
Old 12-13-2014, 09:37 AM
  #6  
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (8)
 
gonzo 6.2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: oregon
Posts: 4,516
Received 15 Likes on 15 Posts
Default

80s crew cab? what do you have for a tranny? a THM400 ? Torque converter ballooning puts high pressure at the back of the crank pushing forward wiping out the thrust bearing.

Is it possible this happened to yours?
Old 12-13-2014, 11:08 AM
  #7  
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
 
00Silv4.8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Mesa AZ
Posts: 3,278
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

it is an 80 and yes it currently has a th400 behind it. I am kicking myself for not verifying end play prior to install, however Ive never ran in to this issue so Ive never thought to check it.

From all the internet wisdom Ive been sifting through it appears that could be an issue I just have a really hard time believing it. The original 454 with God only knows how many 100k miles its seen was just fine, not that that is an instant out, just havent seen enough proof of converter ballooning to wipe out bearings.
Old 12-13-2014, 11:44 AM
  #8  
Custm2500's Rude Friend
iTrader: (17)
 
1FastBrick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: JunkYard
Posts: 14,326
Received 761 Likes on 630 Posts
Default

If the crank wasn't verified before the 1st rebuild, It could be the culprit.

The excessive play would cause your sensor issue. The signal breaks up as the crank moves back and forth.

Usually they Baloon in Nitrous applications or High Horsepower applications when you shock the converter.

That being said, I would verify your end play on the input shaft of the trans. With the high milage, you could have excessive play there and the convertor could be worn. You should also verify you converter to Flywheel clearance when assembling the drivetrain. Too tight could indicate an issue with the convertor. Too loose and you need to use shims to correct and maintain the correct convertor engagement.
The following users liked this post:
HomerSimpson (01-09-2022)
Old 12-13-2014, 12:57 PM
  #9  
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
 
00Silv4.8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Mesa AZ
Posts: 3,278
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Thanks Brick, at this point Im starting to get concerned that I ordered wrong bearings as I was being a cheap *** again. I will get measurements here in a couple mins, been raining all day cant get my *** in gear.
As far as converter spacing it was right where I think it should be. I pushed the converter all the way off the flexplate trying to separate the eng/tran and from eye percent it was about 1/2" gap, if that, with the converter seated to the pump.
Im not trying to rule out a converter problem, I really want to deny it until all the cheap remedies have been exhausted.

However, lets say bearings are right, all is good and I still have this much end play, whats my option, new crank? or should I just start searching for another engine?
Old 12-13-2014, 01:00 PM
  #10  
Custm2500's Rude Friend
iTrader: (17)
 
1FastBrick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: JunkYard
Posts: 14,326
Received 761 Likes on 630 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 00Silv4.8
Thanks Brick, at this point Im starting to get concerned that I ordered wrong bearings as I was being a cheap *** again. I will get measurements here in a couple mins, been raining all day cant get my *** in gear.
As far as converter spacing it was right where I think it should be. I pushed the converter all the way off the flexplate trying to separate the eng/tran and from eye percent it was about 1/2" gap, if that, with the converter seated to the pump.
Im not trying to rule out a converter problem, I really want to deny it until all the cheap remedies have been exhausted.

However, lets say bearings are right, all is good and I still have this much end play, whats my option, new crank? or should I just start searching for another engine?
You can't have both and still be out of spec. Either the bearings are correct and the crank is damaged or the crank is good and the bearings are damaged/wrong causing the play.


Quick Reply: 5.3 crankshaft end play remedy



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:21 PM.