2007 GMC Yukon Denali 6.2L AWD Build
05-09-2015, 02:23 AM
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2007 GMC Yukon Denali 6.2L AWD Build
Hey guys. I'm new to the forum, but no stranger to the performance world. I've been driving high horsepower diesels for the past 5 years, and the diesel community has just gotten out of hand, so I'm bailing out. I have no use for one these days, anyways. Been looking at used Denalis with 80k-120k miles, under $25k. Looking to do a small build to give me the performance I need, without breaking the bank. I will be looking for the best "bang for the buck."
1. Cam. I am undecided here. I want an aggressive cam, but I'm not sure how it will hurt streetability. I've heard the 6.2L can get away with a more aggressive cam. I'm wanting as much power as possible, and I do love a great sounding lop. I'm also debating a VVT cam, or performing a VVT delete and selecting a normal cam.
2. Tune. I am going with BlackBear Tuning. I feel like they are the best in the business, here.
3. Exhaust. Thinking of going with Speed Engineering's long tube headers. If anyone else knows of any budget systems, please let me know. The factory exhaust will be retained, but I will be adding an electric exhaust cutout. I may add a Y-pipe as well, but I am unsure of the gains with it.
4. High Stall Converter and TM. Is an upgraded converter necessary? I've heard that these transmissions can be sketchy without Torque Management. I'm not sure that I even want to remove it. I want to be able to have fun with my vehicle. It will probably have a few track passed, after its finished.
But for the most part, I am very easy on my vehicles. I looked at RevMatch's Stage 5 converter, which supposedly holds 1,500 HP. I've also heard that a properly matched cam and high stall converter can create massive gains, which is what I'm after. However, this will still be a daily driver, and I don't want to make it a pain to drive.
5. Valve Springs. Are they necessary? What gains are to be had with them?
6. Intake. I'll be going with the S&B intake and scoop, as they've always been above and beyond the competition, IMO.
7. E85. Can these motors run 100% E85? I have access to it, and I've used it in several of my past builds. If so, I'll be running it for all occasions. If not, please advise where I can find a conversion kit.
8. AFM. Do these motors have Active Fuel Management? I've heard 2 different answers. If so, can it be tuned out?
10. Any products I'm leaving out that are must-haves?
I am open to all suggestions and advise. I am very new to this side of the performance world, and I still have a lot of learning to do. That being said, I would really appreciate if someone could help and/or educate me more about this build. I really appreciate any help at all! Thank you in advance.
1. Cam. I am undecided here. I want an aggressive cam, but I'm not sure how it will hurt streetability. I've heard the 6.2L can get away with a more aggressive cam. I'm wanting as much power as possible, and I do love a great sounding lop. I'm also debating a VVT cam, or performing a VVT delete and selecting a normal cam.
2. Tune. I am going with BlackBear Tuning. I feel like they are the best in the business, here.
3. Exhaust. Thinking of going with Speed Engineering's long tube headers. If anyone else knows of any budget systems, please let me know. The factory exhaust will be retained, but I will be adding an electric exhaust cutout. I may add a Y-pipe as well, but I am unsure of the gains with it.
4. High Stall Converter and TM. Is an upgraded converter necessary? I've heard that these transmissions can be sketchy without Torque Management. I'm not sure that I even want to remove it. I want to be able to have fun with my vehicle. It will probably have a few track passed, after its finished.
But for the most part, I am very easy on my vehicles. I looked at RevMatch's Stage 5 converter, which supposedly holds 1,500 HP. I've also heard that a properly matched cam and high stall converter can create massive gains, which is what I'm after. However, this will still be a daily driver, and I don't want to make it a pain to drive. 5. Valve Springs. Are they necessary? What gains are to be had with them?
6. Intake. I'll be going with the S&B intake and scoop, as they've always been above and beyond the competition, IMO.
7. E85. Can these motors run 100% E85? I have access to it, and I've used it in several of my past builds. If so, I'll be running it for all occasions. If not, please advise where I can find a conversion kit.
8. AFM. Do these motors have Active Fuel Management? I've heard 2 different answers. If so, can it be tuned out?
10. Any products I'm leaving out that are must-haves?
I am open to all suggestions and advise. I am very new to this side of the performance world, and I still have a lot of learning to do. That being said, I would really appreciate if someone could help and/or educate me more about this build. I really appreciate any help at all! Thank you in advance.
05-09-2015, 11:55 AM
#2
Headers almost always require a Y or connection pipes unless you get the worthless shorty headers that retain the stock cat position.
Valve springs will be needed and whomever you get the cam from should be able to spec those out. Most people go dual to avoid the cringe of having a broken spring.
If you get an aggressive cam you better back it up with a high stall converter or you will have a dead zone. Many cams rob the bottom and and the converter helps out get out of the low rpm faster.
I have done headers + catted connection pipe on several cars but kept the stock muffler and it turned out OK. Most people will remind you about the HP you left on the table.
Intake is a good idea. But the intake and TB are easy to swap out at a later date if you want to take the project in steps.
Valve springs will be needed and whomever you get the cam from should be able to spec those out. Most people go dual to avoid the cringe of having a broken spring.
If you get an aggressive cam you better back it up with a high stall converter or you will have a dead zone. Many cams rob the bottom and and the converter helps out get out of the low rpm faster.
I have done headers + catted connection pipe on several cars but kept the stock muffler and it turned out OK. Most people will remind you about the HP you left on the table.
Intake is a good idea. But the intake and TB are easy to swap out at a later date if you want to take the project in steps.
05-09-2015, 04:04 PM
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Headers almost always require a Y or connection pipes unless you get the worthless shorty headers that retain the stock cat position.
Valve springs will be needed and whomever you get the cam from should be able to spec those out. Most people go dual to avoid the cringe of having a broken spring.
If you get an aggressive cam you better back it up with a high stall converter or you will have a dead zone. Many cams rob the bottom and and the converter helps out get out of the low rpm faster.
I have done headers + catted connection pipe on several cars but kept the stock muffler and it turned out OK. Most people will remind you about the HP you left on the table.
Intake is a good idea. But the intake and TB are easy to swap out at a later date if you want to take the project in steps.
Valve springs will be needed and whomever you get the cam from should be able to spec those out. Most people go dual to avoid the cringe of having a broken spring.
If you get an aggressive cam you better back it up with a high stall converter or you will have a dead zone. Many cams rob the bottom and and the converter helps out get out of the low rpm faster.
I have done headers + catted connection pipe on several cars but kept the stock muffler and it turned out OK. Most people will remind you about the HP you left on the table.
Intake is a good idea. But the intake and TB are easy to swap out at a later date if you want to take the project in steps.
And what would be a good combination cam and stall?
Also, is there any performance exhausts that are quieter than factory? I really want this thing to be a sleeper, with the cutout closed.
05-12-2015, 06:15 AM
#5
Im just going through the list of parts there and you are about to spend 5k +. have you thought about doing a supercharger instead of doing all those mods? A tvs2300 would make that 6.2 run good
05-12-2015, 07:39 AM
#6
With that many miles on the clock if you break open the motor you better be putting all new seals and gaskets everywhere or you are asking for a leak.
So I can see the wisdom of going FI. The TVS2300 is easy to install and would come with everything you need.
By the time I got my heads, cam, all supporting parts, and headers it was in the same range as a supercharger.
The supercharger would make it easier to go back to stock if you wanted to sell and less could go wrong on the install. It doesn't really care as much what heads or cam you have. Might be a good route for you. You wouldn't really need to mess with a torque converter either. Youd be better with just the TVS.
So I can see the wisdom of going FI. The TVS2300 is easy to install and would come with everything you need.
By the time I got my heads, cam, all supporting parts, and headers it was in the same range as a supercharger.
The supercharger would make it easier to go back to stock if you wanted to sell and less could go wrong on the install. It doesn't really care as much what heads or cam you have. Might be a good route for you. You wouldn't really need to mess with a torque converter either. Youd be better with just the TVS.
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05-12-2015, 08:26 PM
#8
Start with the TVS2300 and custom tune and see where that gets you. If you want more, you can go cam, headers, more boost, etc. but that will lead to breaking hard parts (ask me how I know), so have money set aside for transmission and/or diff repairs. You will also need to upgrade the fuel pump and injectors depending on how much power you want to make.
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