THE Tru-Cool 40K GVW Transmission Cooler Install Thread
10-07-2010, 11:39 AM
#21
Your setup looks good Cody...is that the "push lock" hose, or whatever it's called, that you used?
Curious about the painted cooler running 10* hotter, I've always painted mine in the past, but never run them before paint and after to see a difference. You have to use the right kind of paint, and nothing that will retain heat like a ceramic paint. Radiators used to always come black, and factory coolers are usually black, so I feel good about mine.
I saw 150-160* temps all summer long, maybe up to 170ish at some points. This is with a Circle-D billet 258mm 2800 multi-disc. With my old PermaCool 17k tube and fin cooler and the stock trans and converter, I'd usually see over 175* most of the time, and up to 200* at times also.
Curious about the painted cooler running 10* hotter, I've always painted mine in the past, but never run them before paint and after to see a difference. You have to use the right kind of paint, and nothing that will retain heat like a ceramic paint. Radiators used to always come black, and factory coolers are usually black, so I feel good about mine.
I saw 150-160* temps all summer long, maybe up to 170ish at some points. This is with a Circle-D billet 258mm 2800 multi-disc. With my old PermaCool 17k tube and fin cooler and the stock trans and converter, I'd usually see over 175* most of the time, and up to 200* at times also.
If my temps were a little warmer it probably wouldnt be a bad thing hoenstly. The non painted look doesnt bother me so I didnt really bother either way. Id be interested in someones results with the right type of paint you recommend. Maybe Ill try it myself. Most late model radiators Ive messed with werent painted, come to think of it I think all of them are bare. Not sure if that is because its cheaper not to paint or that their heat reduction capacity is better.
Its regular ole earls or russel pushloc nothing special. Fittings are bare aeroquips(cheap) except for the 45 which they only had in anodized at the time in my local speed shop.
10-07-2010, 11:45 AM
#22
I don't use any special type of paint, but I make sure that it's not a paint that retains heat. I'll bet that a radiator shop would have the best stuff, just not sure how long it will last. The radiator shop that we used to deal with when I worked for one of the Toyota dealerships that I worked for used some real cheap black crap, that would basically smear off when it got grease or oil on it.
*EDIT* There has been an obvious change in radiator construction through the years...the ones I grew up on (that were repairable) were all painted black and had copper cores...maybe because the copper looked funny or would oxidize easier than the aluminum (with plastic end caps) that have become the standard.
*EDIT* There has been an obvious change in radiator construction through the years...the ones I grew up on (that were repairable) were all painted black and had copper cores...maybe because the copper looked funny or would oxidize easier than the aluminum (with plastic end caps) that have become the standard.
10-07-2010, 12:00 PM
#25
I don't use any special type of paint, but I make sure that it's not a paint that retains heat. I'll bet that a radiator shop would have the best stuff, just not sure how long it will last. The radiator shop that we used to deal with when I worked for one of the Toyota dealerships that I worked for used some real cheap black crap, that would basically smear off when it got grease or oil on it.
*EDIT* There has been an obvious change in radiator construction through the years...the ones I grew up on (that were repairable) were all painted black and had copper cores...maybe because the copper looked funny or would oxidize easier than the aluminum (with plastic end caps) that have become the standard.
*EDIT* There has been an obvious change in radiator construction through the years...the ones I grew up on (that were repairable) were all painted black and had copper cores...maybe because the copper looked funny or would oxidize easier than the aluminum (with plastic end caps) that have become the standard.
That will be plenty, you will use about 8' per side
Me too, between the escalade and denali cluster Ive had, not until recently ahve I started using my EFI Live and I dont think Ive even monitered trans temps.
10-07-2010, 01:05 PM
#26
is the trucool 5/8-18 inverted flare?
Ive notice comparing the cluster trans temp to hptuners that below 150 it follows very accurately, but reads a bit low compared to the actual temp from 150-200 by about 10 degrees. So if the gauge says 160, its more like 170.
Ive notice comparing the cluster trans temp to hptuners that below 150 it follows very accurately, but reads a bit low compared to the actual temp from 150-200 by about 10 degrees. So if the gauge says 160, its more like 170.
10-07-2010, 01:55 PM
#29
Formerly darynC-10/23/10
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i would use braided hose over the pushloc hose. trans fluid is acidic and over time it may eat away at that blue hose if its not teflon lined.. you can get a 20ft roll of -6 for $70 from jegs.
10-07-2010, 02:12 PM
#30
Big things people (like me) need to know:
-What is the fitting thread size on the trucool cooler?
-What is the fitting thread size on the 4l60e?
-What is the fitting thread size on the 4l80e?
-What is the approximate length from the cooler ports to the front central location of the truck?
-What size hose is adequate to use?
-What is the fitting thread size on the trucool cooler?
-What is the fitting thread size on the 4l60e?
-What is the fitting thread size on the 4l80e?
-What is the approximate length from the cooler ports to the front central location of the truck?
-What size hose is adequate to use?
AKlowriderZ71 posted that NAPA fitting, p/n 730-4953 that goes right to factory cooler line. That's fine in a factory install, but most seem to wanting to do AN.
The purechoicemotorsports work as do Russell's. You do indeed want (2) 1/4" pipe for tans side. 5/8" inverted flare in / out cooler. -6 AN is fine. IDK 80E fitting size, so hopefully someone can come forward on that.
Here's the PN for the GM aux cooler kit: PN:12497071
I combined this along the the bracket and hardware kit available from EAD for a plug and play set up. https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...d.php?t=444082
One note, when using the EAD brackets, it was necessary for me to notch the center support bracket of my grille...this is not necessary on 03+ models...
some of my old threads...
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...hlight=trucool
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...hlight=trucool
I combined this along the the bracket and hardware kit available from EAD for a plug and play set up. https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...d.php?t=444082
One note, when using the EAD brackets, it was necessary for me to notch the center support bracket of my grille...this is not necessary on 03+ models...
some of my old threads...
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...hlight=trucool
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...hlight=trucool
BH3, this 2998154 is invalid. quick search for "trucool" (I knew that I'd find some of my old threads lol)
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...archid=2998154
I'm sure anyone knew they'd find some TruCool threads w/your name attached.
I know that on a 4l80e the rear fitting (return side) needs to be made with a tube that extends into the case. About 3/4" if I remember correctly. I have one at home I can take a pic of when I get home this weekend.
Here's a little tip on running modified factory lines I had to learn the hard way. When converting from the 60 to the 80 it requires that the return side be lengthened significantly as the return port on the 80 is in the rear of the tranny. I cut the factory line and lengthened it with a rubber hose. Secured the line very well (or so I thought). I was using the factory type fitting and line that use the little e-clip to hold in place. Over time the rubber line let the hard line move around in the fitting enough that the clip no longer held it in place. I was on the freeway when it happened and it wasn't pretty.
Here's a little tip on running modified factory lines I had to learn the hard way. When converting from the 60 to the 80 it requires that the return side be lengthened significantly as the return port on the 80 is in the rear of the tranny. I cut the factory line and lengthened it with a rubber hose. Secured the line very well (or so I thought). I was using the factory type fitting and line that use the little e-clip to hold in place. Over time the rubber line let the hard line move around in the fitting enough that the clip no longer held it in place. I was on the freeway when it happened and it wasn't pretty.
The funky lil E-clips are to be replaced. Issues such as this can happen & do.
nickleahy23, yes, AN route requires new lines from the trans unless you're gonna go the cut & splice route.
... Curious about the painted cooler running 10* hotter, I've always painted mine in the past, but never run them before paint and after to see a difference. You have to use the right kind of paint, and nothing that will retain heat like a ceramic paint.
I saw 150-160* temps all summer long, maybe up to 170ish at some points. This is with a Circle-D billet 258mm 2800 multi-disc.
I saw 150-160* temps all summer long, maybe up to 170ish at some points. This is with a Circle-D billet 258mm 2800 multi-disc.
So If I got 2 runs of 10' hose, think I would have plenty of extra?
Ive notice comparing the cluster trans temp to hptuners that below 150 it follows very accurately, but reads a bit low compared to the actual temp from 150-200 by about 10 degrees. So if the gauge says 160, its more like 170.
Ive notice comparing the cluster trans temp to hptuners that below 150 it follows very accurately, but reads a bit low compared to the actual temp from 150-200 by about 10 degrees. So if the gauge says 160, its more like 170.
I just bought a 20' roll. I'd rather I had extra, which I did, but Cody said he had enuff w/. what he had. IDK if u would need a tad extra cause you're lifted. I wanna say my short line was 52" or so, 5' would do that run.
smokeshow, switch over to an AN setup is gonna be $200 or so. Depends if u use the expensive AN hose or Pushloc.
Richard, if u need some straight -6AN black fittins, hit me up. Or any other info I can help u w/. on this; you've helped me more than once.
Last edited by fastnblu; 10-07-2010 at 02:30 PM. Reason: Added info.
