Official 14 Bolt 9.5 SF Truck Thread
06-28-2016, 12:25 PM
#41
I don't believe they would be a direct bolt in.
I would like to see this brake set up though.
06-28-2016, 03:09 PM
#45
I have set up 3.73s, 4.10s, and 4.56 gears (aftermarket 5 cut) in this axle. The pinion shims used which resulted in good looking patterns are as follows:
3.73s - .035"
4.10s - .037"
4.56s - .036"
You will still want to confirm by running a pattern.
3.73s - .035"
4.10s - .037"
4.56s - .036"
You will still want to confirm by running a pattern.
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ls6musclehead (08-23-2018)
09-27-2016, 10:59 AM
#47
Staging Lane
Could someone clarify for me:
My '12 1500 with the 6.2L comes with the AXN hybrid 9.5 14bsf with disk brakes. Is this the same axle that came in the 05-07 classic SS and Vortec Max trucks with the exception of having drum brakes? And Swapping those to disks is a bolt on deal right? (With the exception of the caliper clocking that is)
My '12 1500 with the 6.2L comes with the AXN hybrid 9.5 14bsf with disk brakes. Is this the same axle that came in the 05-07 classic SS and Vortec Max trucks with the exception of having drum brakes? And Swapping those to disks is a bolt on deal right? (With the exception of the caliper clocking that is)
09-27-2016, 01:53 PM
#48
Could someone clarify for me:
My '12 1500 with the 6.2L comes with the AXN hybrid 9.5 14bsf with disk brakes. Is this the same axle that came in the 05-07 classic SS and Vortec Max trucks with the exception of having drum brakes? And Swapping those to disks is a bolt on deal right? (With the exception of the caliper clocking that is)
My '12 1500 with the 6.2L comes with the AXN hybrid 9.5 14bsf with disk brakes. Is this the same axle that came in the 05-07 classic SS and Vortec Max trucks with the exception of having drum brakes? And Swapping those to disks is a bolt on deal right? (With the exception of the caliper clocking that is)
12-03-2016, 02:12 AM
#49
hey guys, just wanted to add a recent swap to this. if Fastbrick wants to put the info on the first page, ill give as much info as possible. this swap I did not see on any of the sticky threads...
we took a 2011 Silvy 1500 5.3/6L80e/10 bolt and put an LSA long block and blower in it. the 10 bolt was already having issues so instead of building it, as the owner uses this as a truck still too, and drags it sometimes, we just did a 9.5 SF. its the stock locker for now, we will see how it hooks at the track, thatll depend on when/how we build it. SO to get to the point-
2011 Silverado 5.3 CCSB 2WD, originally 6L80e swapping 6L90e in. This poor truck was ordered by a moron. Its a near $60k MSRP LTZ, fully loaded, but they put a 5.3, 3.08s, yet 22" GM wheels and body color bumpers/grille. Dealer obviously needs a new new car manager lol. Anyways- that's the truck the diff went in. The donor diff was a 9.5" SF 14 bolt from a 2008 Silvy 2wd Vmax 6.0/4L70e/3.73s. It DOES have the dual wheel speed sensors already in it, so no loss of full 4 wheel ABS. It is a direct swap minus the driveshaft needing to be shortened. HOWEVER- if one of you guys is running a 2 pc shaft, and are rocking stock ride height, you might be ok. This truck has a 2/3 on it, rear is bagged. I did not really take any pictures, but for the record-
Donor truck- 08' ECSB VMAX 2WD w/ 4L70e and 9.5" SF (this truck had stock rear discs too as a plus)
Project Truck- 11' Silverado CCSB 2WD (originally 5.3/6L80e/8.6" w/3.08s). It is lowered like I said, 2/3 with bags on back holding it up. We do not do flip kits on high powered trucks so we bagged the rear. ABOUT THE SWAP: everything was a direct swap, from the ABS sensors, to the split/dual brake lines, spring perches same width/height. The only issue is driveshaft length- I searched high and low, but couldn't find NNBS to NNBS swaps so im posting this to hopefully help someone. The proper amount to shorten the shaft- stock or 2/3, is approx. 1.325". We have tested it at every suspension angle- its perfect. if you have like a 4/6 or more, you may want to go with about 1.5" to be safer. A little goes a lot, despite how far the rear may look like it travels, it comes down to a trig problem and the shaft doesn't go in and out as far as most may think. I wanted to post this to let people know, just because the difference in yoke length between our two axles was only about 5/8", that would not have been the right amount to remove- it would've bottomed out the shaft. Anyways hope this helps someone one day, always open for questions.
John
we took a 2011 Silvy 1500 5.3/6L80e/10 bolt and put an LSA long block and blower in it. the 10 bolt was already having issues so instead of building it, as the owner uses this as a truck still too, and drags it sometimes, we just did a 9.5 SF. its the stock locker for now, we will see how it hooks at the track, thatll depend on when/how we build it. SO to get to the point-
2011 Silverado 5.3 CCSB 2WD, originally 6L80e swapping 6L90e in. This poor truck was ordered by a moron. Its a near $60k MSRP LTZ, fully loaded, but they put a 5.3, 3.08s, yet 22" GM wheels and body color bumpers/grille. Dealer obviously needs a new new car manager lol. Anyways- that's the truck the diff went in. The donor diff was a 9.5" SF 14 bolt from a 2008 Silvy 2wd Vmax 6.0/4L70e/3.73s. It DOES have the dual wheel speed sensors already in it, so no loss of full 4 wheel ABS. It is a direct swap minus the driveshaft needing to be shortened. HOWEVER- if one of you guys is running a 2 pc shaft, and are rocking stock ride height, you might be ok. This truck has a 2/3 on it, rear is bagged. I did not really take any pictures, but for the record-
Donor truck- 08' ECSB VMAX 2WD w/ 4L70e and 9.5" SF (this truck had stock rear discs too as a plus)
Project Truck- 11' Silverado CCSB 2WD (originally 5.3/6L80e/8.6" w/3.08s). It is lowered like I said, 2/3 with bags on back holding it up. We do not do flip kits on high powered trucks so we bagged the rear. ABOUT THE SWAP: everything was a direct swap, from the ABS sensors, to the split/dual brake lines, spring perches same width/height. The only issue is driveshaft length- I searched high and low, but couldn't find NNBS to NNBS swaps so im posting this to hopefully help someone. The proper amount to shorten the shaft- stock or 2/3, is approx. 1.325". We have tested it at every suspension angle- its perfect. if you have like a 4/6 or more, you may want to go with about 1.5" to be safer. A little goes a lot, despite how far the rear may look like it travels, it comes down to a trig problem and the shaft doesn't go in and out as far as most may think. I wanted to post this to let people know, just because the difference in yoke length between our two axles was only about 5/8", that would not have been the right amount to remove- it would've bottomed out the shaft. Anyways hope this helps someone one day, always open for questions.
John
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ls6musclehead (08-23-2018)
12-27-2017, 01:09 PM
#50
Staging Lane
Anyone here upgrade the factory single piston calipers on their NNBS 9.5" 14bsf to the NBS SUV dual piston rear calipers? Looking up parts, they use the same exact rotor so the calipers should be compatible and the mounts don't appear to have changed either from the NBS to NNBS.