Gettting our Truck to Hook Up 101
12-04-2005, 04:38 PM
#43
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Woodstock Ontario Canada
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I have gotten a series of 2.00 60 ft times with radial tires. My best was a 2.007 with 235/70/15 on the drivers side and a 275/60/15 on the passenger side, this was with an L35 2500 rpm stall converter, 4.10:1 gears, open differential.
To get the 2.00 60's I would sit on the line at idle and simply punch the throttle wide open when the 2nd last yellow light went out. I the tires didnt spin, not even a hint. The mismatch tires worked better tahn having a set of matching 275 tires on the rear.
I have ran a set of BFG Drag radials 325/50/15(28") on a set of 15x10"rims, with the stock TC these wre good for 2.1 60 ft times, this was using the crappy Powertrax no slip system. This locker surley spun both tires, but the huge wheelhop was horrible, I went thru 3 sets of these Lock rites, never again.
I was surprised that I actually hooked better with an open differential than with a locker.
Having both tires driving will usually increase traction, but not to the huge degree that most people think. I saw an article that compared g's at launch between different vehicles, when a traction device such as a locker was added, 1 that provides torque to both tires equally, the g's at launch did increase, but were nowhere near doubling, the launch g's increased by a few percent.
The larger the diameter of the rire, the more rubber will actually be on the pavement. If you corrcet for gearing, a 33" tire will out hook a 28" tire everytime, all else equal.
Having a 2 tires each with an outside diameter of 33", 1 with a 15" rim, 1 with a 20" rim. The 33" tire with the 15" rim will out hook the 20" rim due to increased sidewall flex of the taller sidewalled tire.
I have had good luck with slightly used(qualifying) CASCAR slicks(circle track) a 27" x 8.5" slick on a 7" steel rim. I have found that havingthe rim slightly narrower than the treadwidth of the slick really helps with traction.
I am guessing I have between 260-280 rwhp, on a bone stock leaf suspension withthe factory "firm ride" option. I have also experienced better traction with "well used " shocks rather than new ones.
Peace
Hog
To get the 2.00 60's I would sit on the line at idle and simply punch the throttle wide open when the 2nd last yellow light went out. I the tires didnt spin, not even a hint. The mismatch tires worked better tahn having a set of matching 275 tires on the rear.
I have ran a set of BFG Drag radials 325/50/15(28") on a set of 15x10"rims, with the stock TC these wre good for 2.1 60 ft times, this was using the crappy Powertrax no slip system. This locker surley spun both tires, but the huge wheelhop was horrible, I went thru 3 sets of these Lock rites, never again.
I was surprised that I actually hooked better with an open differential than with a locker.
Having both tires driving will usually increase traction, but not to the huge degree that most people think. I saw an article that compared g's at launch between different vehicles, when a traction device such as a locker was added, 1 that provides torque to both tires equally, the g's at launch did increase, but were nowhere near doubling, the launch g's increased by a few percent.
The larger the diameter of the rire, the more rubber will actually be on the pavement. If you corrcet for gearing, a 33" tire will out hook a 28" tire everytime, all else equal.
Having a 2 tires each with an outside diameter of 33", 1 with a 15" rim, 1 with a 20" rim. The 33" tire with the 15" rim will out hook the 20" rim due to increased sidewall flex of the taller sidewalled tire.
I have had good luck with slightly used(qualifying) CASCAR slicks(circle track) a 27" x 8.5" slick on a 7" steel rim. I have found that havingthe rim slightly narrower than the treadwidth of the slick really helps with traction.
I am guessing I have between 260-280 rwhp, on a bone stock leaf suspension withthe factory "firm ride" option. I have also experienced better traction with "well used " shocks rather than new ones.
Peace
Hog
04-01-2013, 06:45 AM
#44
I'm clueless as to how I'm going to hook. I'm running nitto drag radials and they dont hook any better then the factory size all season tire on the street. I've tried punching it from a dead stop and blow the tires off. I've tried stalling it up and of course, even worse. How the heck am I going to hook with my 3600 stall and 4.56 gears???
04-01-2013, 11:12 AM
#45
Old school weight transfer trick that you can try: take 2 sections of PVC pipe that are the length of your bed, cap one end and fill them both half full of water, then cap the top. Lay one on each side of the bed and secure them down. When you launch, all the water will flow to the rear, effectively transferring more weight over the rear to help with traction, and once you get going, the water will even the weight back out. I haven't personally tried this trick yet, but I know quite a few guys who swear by it. Good cheap way to try and boost traction, and if it doesnt work, youre only out some pipe and water.
04-01-2013, 02:04 PM
#46
KP Components Weld-In, Parallel 4-Link and Panhard Bar System (Universal Fit) works pretty well in the older trucks. It runs near $500.
Paired up with QA1's, a good Posi\gear and 15-16" ET Streets or Hoosiier slicks, mid to low 1.5 sixtys are common with 400+ rwhp.
Still big bucks though, when added all together..especially if you have to pay someone to weld the 4 link in. Just buy a piece at a time till you finally get there.
Paired up with QA1's, a good Posi\gear and 15-16" ET Streets or Hoosiier slicks, mid to low 1.5 sixtys are common with 400+ rwhp.
Still big bucks though, when added all together..especially if you have to pay someone to weld the 4 link in. Just buy a piece at a time till you finally get there.
