Gear pattern help from experts
01-17-2017, 07:00 AM
#21
I would use the thicker washer for sure . If your unsure about it before you do your final torque back the nut off and see where the pinion splines are with the washer . I think you will be ok with the oem washer . Also I would use some blue thread lock on it .
You have the angle like I did it . But just a couple things . I drilled the holes out closer to the the edge for a couple reasons . You will find the socket will not fit in there so you will have to notch the angle . If you move the holes out to the edge you will have more meat behind the socket after notch for strength . I was afraid if I cut to much out the other vertical piece would bend in that area . But I think you have a bigger piece than I had . I would just cut a relief for the socket and give it a try .
Everything is looking good .
You have the angle like I did it . But just a couple things . I drilled the holes out closer to the the edge for a couple reasons . You will find the socket will not fit in there so you will have to notch the angle . If you move the holes out to the edge you will have more meat behind the socket after notch for strength . I was afraid if I cut to much out the other vertical piece would bend in that area . But I think you have a bigger piece than I had . I would just cut a relief for the socket and give it a try .
Everything is looking good .
You're saying to use blue thread locker on the washer?
01-17-2017, 07:53 AM
#22
Staging Lane
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Alabama
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Blue thread lock on the threads on the pinion and nut . I have had some of those nuts loosen over time . Never had one come loose with the threat lock on it . Just some added security .
Also I think you will find you will have to notch for the socket . Will not be able to get the socket past the angle and seat on the nut if just notch for the extension . If your socket is short enough you could install the socket before bolting up the angle but I think your big socket size will be to tall . Just play around with it to see what works for you .
Also I think you will find you will have to notch for the socket . Will not be able to get the socket past the angle and seat on the nut if just notch for the extension . If your socket is short enough you could install the socket before bolting up the angle but I think your big socket size will be to tall . Just play around with it to see what works for you .
Last edited by homemade87; 01-17-2017 at 08:01 AM.
01-17-2017, 09:38 AM
#23
Oh OK, I planned to use red thread locker on it but blue would probably be better in case of removal later. I do have a short stubby socket I'm using but either way I'll play around with it tonight after work and see if I can get this thing buttoned up
01-18-2017, 08:25 AM
#24
What would a normal price range be for this at a shop, minus parts?
I want to do this to my 2014 with the bigger wheels im running, and will be servicing the diff and replacing a tweaked axle anyway.
I want to do this to my 2014 with the bigger wheels im running, and will be servicing the diff and replacing a tweaked axle anyway.
01-18-2017, 10:20 AM
#25
That's tough to answer since all markets are different. I know guys that paid $250 labor for a regear, but you also have to wonder if that shop took the time to get it right or just slapped it together and went. This is also why I believe you read reviews where people complain about some of the best gears whining or breaking, and that they had a reputable shop do it...
I was quoted $1400 to do a regear, posi, new bearings, etc... I've probably spent more than that since I bought special tools like the shop press, but I like to do things myself and learn. The shop that quoted me also didn't use parts I wanted to use. I wanted a trutrac, Yukon gears and they used some other brand that he "swore by" but I plan to be turbo eventually so I wanted reputable parts. He also said if I brought the parts in myself that it would only be labor but that there is no warranty which I thought was bullshit because what's to stop him from just slapping it together and then saying "not warrantable" when it ***** the bed in a few hundred miles
I was quoted $1400 to do a regear, posi, new bearings, etc... I've probably spent more than that since I bought special tools like the shop press, but I like to do things myself and learn. The shop that quoted me also didn't use parts I wanted to use. I wanted a trutrac, Yukon gears and they used some other brand that he "swore by" but I plan to be turbo eventually so I wanted reputable parts. He also said if I brought the parts in myself that it would only be labor but that there is no warranty which I thought was bullshit because what's to stop him from just slapping it together and then saying "not warrantable" when it ***** the bed in a few hundred miles
01-18-2017, 07:19 PM
#27
Well I did what most people probably do when doing this for the first time... Overshot the pinion bearing pre-load to 30 in-lbs. I got my angle iron setup and my breaker bar and it went very very easy. I gave it some muscle and checked and it was at 5in-lbs but after a few turns it lubed up and went back to basically 0. I decided to give it a bit more muscle and thought "I should stop here" at about halfway in my stroke, but went all the way down to the angle iron. That put me right to 30in-lbs.... So I started taking it back apart with my brass punch and hammer. Got the pinion back out and then decided to check that spring in the pinion seal. Well it was popped out and floating around in there. Not sure if this happened from the beating with the hammer, or if it was popped out from the install (my original fear), but either way it could have been a blessing in disguise to overshoot that crush sleeve
Now the question is how do I get that seal out without damaging it? I tried getting the spring in with some picks but it was tough
Now the question is how do I get that seal out without damaging it? I tried getting the spring in with some picks but it was tough
