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First of all i know theres a lot of info already in here about caltracs, yellowbullet has a nice thread, believe me ive been reading a lot searching for my answer but cant find exacly what i need to have peace. I think we truck guys have a harder time getting traction anyways.
The reason im back digging into this is ive been putting many hours into my suspension latley trying to get better traccion since i went turbo, upgrades like:
-Shocks relocating
-9 position rancho shocks
-changed from 20 inch nitto 555r to 15inch bogarts with et street mickey thompons
-Made new traccion bars
-Changed pinion angle
-Two step
All this got me from high 1.90´s to low 1.90´s and more consistent at the track, i used to spin a little leaving the line now im dead hooking at low boost so i figured i would have traccion even if i left hard wish i plan to do next time out (i leave on two step, no transbrake)
Now the sad part is it seems like my traccion on the street got worse, i would spin before on near stock suspension 20 inch 555r nittos but i felt like speed would pick up desent, now after all the changes im expecting at least a little better traccion but it seems like im on ice, i havnt test a lot but i would boost a little on a 30mph roll race before but now if i boost it on a roll race i make a 1/4 mile rolling burnout
Questions:
Do i need to change my suspension street vs track?
I had both shocks on position no.9 (stiffest)
Bars where setup touching the spring + 3/4 turn (is it to much maybe?)
I read you want the bars parralel but without a flip kit its hard unless i would make the front triangle bigger on my caltracs (i have the CAD files i could easy have some bigger triangles made with the plasma table), i wonder if the triangle should be bigger so the bars come lower on a non (flip kit) bar kit
Pictures
My bars are at 10 degrees right now
Sorry i tried my best to be detailed and not confuse you guys to much, i know there are people in here having great results with similar setups, i would really appriate any input on this topic
i have no input on street vs track setup, but your first after vid shows you're losing all of your antisquat while stalling. have you tried just touching the traction bar to the top of the spring pack? all they're doing at this point is preventing axle wrap.
10* is already pretty steep. not sure why you would want more.
i actually want less, if the bars have to be parralel to the floor i was thinking if the triangle would be bigger it would be closer to the floor making my bars more parrelel
i have no input on street vs track setup, but your first after vid shows you're losing all of your antisquat while stalling. have you tried just touching the traction bar to the top of the spring pack? all they're doing at this point is preventing axle wrap.
do i want to lift the truck on the rear by stalling or do i want it to lift when i leave?
you want the rear suspension to separate when launching. that plants the tire to the ground. the trick is to find that fine line where it's planting, but not unloading.
you want the rear suspension to separate when launching. that plants the tire to the ground. the trick is to find that fine line where it's planting, but not unloading.
So u think my bars being at 10* is ok? i should focus on adjustements or would you make them parrelel first?
Your front brackets are the low clearance version for lowered trucks. Call caltrac and get the regular height brackets. My caltracs are essentially parallel with the ground, non flip kit.
Your front brackets are the low clearance version for lowered trucks. Call caltrac and get the regular height brackets. My caltracs are essentially parallel with the ground, non flip kit.
Thats exacly what i needed to hear, im guessing im giving up traction by not having my bars parrelel
05-11-2016, 01:57 PM
Caltracs street vs track (Videos & Pictures)
