80e mods? Do's and not really needed?
#1
80e mods? Do's and not really needed?
So reading for the last few months on my up coming 80e swap- I'm still wondering what I should do to it- should I get it rebuilt? Should I just do a valve body mod? Shift kit? Maybe internals?
Im soon to be running a lq9 cammed with this mp122hh running 8-9 psi on the 5.3 so idk what it will be on the 6.0. Typical bolt ins, LT, ORY, CAI, efans, It will be getting a 3000 stall installed.
it has about 75,000-90,000 miles since last rebuild, and it shifted good. The fluid was not burnt while draining it. It came out of my 2000 gmc van. Will the wiring be ok?
Im soon to be running a lq9 cammed with this mp122hh running 8-9 psi on the 5.3 so idk what it will be on the 6.0. Typical bolt ins, LT, ORY, CAI, efans, It will be getting a 3000 stall installed.
it has about 75,000-90,000 miles since last rebuild, and it shifted good. The fluid was not burnt while draining it. It came out of my 2000 gmc van. Will the wiring be ok?
#2
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (5)
Just my opinion but if you're going to put that much power to it - rebuild it to take more than the motor puts out. I just did the 80e swap and had my builder re-build my $350 donor with a Jake's Stage III kit & now I'm not worried about killing it with the Stroker I'm running now or later on when I boost it. The $ will be worth it in piece of mind for me at least.
#3
See what your builder likes.
If you can do full rebuild look at the 34 element sprag, stock frictions and steels, internal dual feed mod, and so forth. That my uneducated take on a build and what I personally did. After that I did a tune and removed pretty much all torque management. Remove that reverse VB checkball too!
A sonnax boost valve and valve body kit is nice too. Maybe new solenoids? Check all those valve body bores too.
I'm a hack though and there are many much smarter people here.
If you can do full rebuild look at the 34 element sprag, stock frictions and steels, internal dual feed mod, and so forth. That my uneducated take on a build and what I personally did. After that I did a tune and removed pretty much all torque management. Remove that reverse VB checkball too!
A sonnax boost valve and valve body kit is nice too. Maybe new solenoids? Check all those valve body bores too.
I'm a hack though and there are many much smarter people here.
#4
Thank you for the inputs. Correct me if I'm wrong but the 2000 year 80e doesn't it have bigger roller sprag or beefier compared to later models?
Have you rebuilt it or attempted yourself? I'm thinking about trying it. I only asked the questions above because I've been told I can just run it with a shift kit and be fine but all the readings don't point that way as much. It's hard to choke up the $$$$ for a professional guy to do it after my stupid 60e ate most of the $$$$ before kids came along.
Im at the point with my 65e and I have had FLT mod it a couple times already I just don't want to smoke this thing- so I traded off the trans to a buddy for this trans, 80e precision 3000 stall, his stock 60e trans and his 05 5.3 that we took out and replaced with his lq4.
Have you rebuilt it or attempted yourself? I'm thinking about trying it. I only asked the questions above because I've been told I can just run it with a shift kit and be fine but all the readings don't point that way as much. It's hard to choke up the $$$$ for a professional guy to do it after my stupid 60e ate most of the $$$$ before kids came along.
Im at the point with my 65e and I have had FLT mod it a couple times already I just don't want to smoke this thing- so I traded off the trans to a buddy for this trans, 80e precision 3000 stall, his stock 60e trans and his 05 5.3 that we took out and replaced with his lq4.
#7
TECH Apprentice
i did a billet hub, hardened input shaft and jakes valve body recalibration with associated mods. i also used thinner steels in one of the clutch packs so i could get an extra clutch plate in there. all the other pieces were stock. i think i even reused most of the steels and clutches.
i think overall cost was around 1000 but i did the work myself.
i think overall cost was around 1000 but i did the work myself.
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#8
For what you have i would just do a regular rebuild with maybe upgraded clutch pack, spend the extra on a deep pan and cooler with a good converter. Also you want to get the year model that has the extra bolt hole on the bell housing that works better with lsx setups. I have run my 80 with multiple passes on dr's with 416/427 with tbss without a hitch for 3 years now.
At a certain point though in our heavy trucks and big power setups a tranny is just a serviceable part like brakes or anything else so save accordingly.
At a certain point though in our heavy trucks and big power setups a tranny is just a serviceable part like brakes or anything else so save accordingly.