08Chevy

iTrader: (2)

What you're not getting, is that its **** that can be put back on easily.

A spare is 60 pounds. thats almost a a tenth.

I bet if I do those few easy things to take off I could run 14s.

I'm not saying take every ******* thing off your truck and run it. My 15.2 was in the heat of the summer, with spare, tailgate, trailor hitch, even WITH THE BALL ON. I looked like I was running my tow rig LOL. Even on heavy *** stock 20s.

So take a few things off, change out to some 17s and I bet I could get 14s without a problem and THEN get more performance parts to see what times I can do then.

Rhino79

iTrader: (7)

Well I ain't shying away from ripping the **** off my truck I don't need, like an extra battery tray, go with aluminum wheels instead of chrome steel wheels etc. I use my truck daily, I am not pulling the seats but I am going to get this big pig as light as I can, even if I only drop 200 lbs.

Foxxer

Some trucks come with 4x4 z71 here, any idea's or is it worth switching to 2 wheels only? lol :p

Rhino79

iTrader: (7)

My stock 17" steel chrome wheels are 31 lbs, my hankook 275 55's are 36 lbs each. I will weigh the difference between headers and ory vs the stock manifolds and catted y when I swap over. I also will be noting the difference between the stock converter and the Yank ss4000 when I get it.

Egghaus

How does that battery tray weight 3 lbs? It looks like it is holding a bunch of other parts together, did you just reinstall the bolts after removal?

Rhino79

iTrader: (7)

YEah I put the bolts back in, it didnt weigh much, bout 2 or 3 lbs, but with what I've removed I have trimmed about 207 lbs off of my truck.

skoal bandit

iTrader: (1)

I rather add power than remove weight. I ran 14.1 in full weight with car seats, spare tire, hitch, ball, tools, tailgate up, full tank, full colon and bladder... sure i could have hit high 13s if I would have took it all out but who cares. If I wanted 1/4 mile times, I would just buy nitrous and gears and probably a smaller vehicle.

08cheyennesc

iTrader: (2)

What can be wrong with temoving parts that are not needed, more power cost $$ , removing parts is free

Rhino79

iTrader: (7)

I just want to work with what vehicle I have. The thing I like about pulling dead weight is that its just freeing up what's already there. I don't tow or haul anyything, I just got a crew cab because I have kids.
I really think with bolt ons and converter I can get low 14's out of it, and I'm going to try with 3.23's.

08Chevy

iTrader: (2)

Good for you.


For the people coming into the thread and NOT wanting to remove the ****, GTFO.

Purpose of this thread was to inform people about what is easily removeable, and how much it weighs. If you don't want to give good info about what you removed and how it improved your times. Then shut the **** up and get the **** out.

This thread is for info, not your opinions on why you don't want to remove ****. No one is talking about taking the beds and cabs off the truck to run the fastest time. THAT would be retarded. Its easy **** that can be removed (ie, spare, tailgate, run a low tank of gas(not empty) lower the psi in the tires, run smaller wheel/tire combo)

So if the next person comes in here to say why they don't want to remove **** on their truck, I'm going to pester the **** out of them.

It took me literally 10 minutes to remove my trailor hitch and spare at my house. I ran at the local (shitty) 1/8th mile track this weekend with a half a tank of gas and those 2 things removed and ran 9.8 all night. Not my best, but a lot better for my consitant times.

edit: and If I did some 17s for track wheels. I'd have a 9.7 all night. Stock 20s are heavy as ****.