Dual Walbro 450s in 04-07 Tank
07-10-2016, 07:30 PM
#1
Dual Walbro 450s in 04-07 Tank
I am a big fan of swapping the tanks in the 99-03 trucks for the 04+ tank and bucket assembly, and this is why:
You can install dual pumps by keeping the bucket in tact and not drilling holes all in it. Obviously the 04 and 07 buckets have much larger volume. The bucket and tanks must match the year they are from.
Things you have to do for this to work:
1. Remove the old tank.
2. Remove EVAP canister thing in front of the tank.
3. Highly recommend running a hotwire kit (I make my own with 10ga wire).
4. May need to move wires on the connector for the fuel level sensor.
5. Reverse the primary level and gauge primary level tables in the tune for the fuel level sensor to work correctly.
6. Vent the tank if you delete the EVAP so you can fill it up.
Stock bucket disassembled
Further disassembled
Pump size comparison
Heres I how I install the pumps in the inner bucket holder thing. Most guys way over think this part. I offset them so they arent drawing from the same spot.
I like using this 3/8"NPT Y piece from mcmaster with brass fittings. The bulkhead fitting is from summit. The nut on there is just a spacer so it doesnt stick out of the top so far.
I used 1ft of the nice gates submersible hose ($20-$30/foot), and it was the perfect amount. You should measure the compressed distance of the bucket when its in the tank and use that length to cut your hose. Angle the hose so it doesnt have sharp bends. Everyone says the worm clamps are bad but I have several of these do just fine going on 4-5 years now. Just dont be an idiot and tighten the **** out of it.
I cut off the connectors and drill 3 holes in the top of the bucket for the 10ga wire (gas rated wire from summit). The pumps share a common ground that I use a self taping screw on the frame right beside the tank. Solder and heat shrink the wire connections if you can, but my soldering gun doesnt have enough umph to do 10ga effectively. In reality 12ga would probably be fine, but I like overkill.
Also heres an easy way to get to the tank,
Make sure you cut the stock feed line as close to the regulator as possible. This will be your return line and you want to make sure you point it right into the bucket and at the pumps. This will work very well to keep the bucket full and the pumps happy. Although I still recommend not going below 1/2 tank (why risk it?) when you are doing hard launches.
Top of the bucket,
Notice how I ran the 5/8" hose up to a filter by the filler neck to vent the tank. If you block off all the evap ports you wont be able to fill the tank (the air needs somewhere to go!). Not the most EPA friendly way, but works great. Make sure you put the filter higher than the filler neck.
You can install dual pumps by keeping the bucket in tact and not drilling holes all in it. Obviously the 04 and 07 buckets have much larger volume. The bucket and tanks must match the year they are from.
Things you have to do for this to work:
1. Remove the old tank.
2. Remove EVAP canister thing in front of the tank.
3. Highly recommend running a hotwire kit (I make my own with 10ga wire).
4. May need to move wires on the connector for the fuel level sensor.
5. Reverse the primary level and gauge primary level tables in the tune for the fuel level sensor to work correctly.
6. Vent the tank if you delete the EVAP so you can fill it up.
Stock bucket disassembled
Further disassembled
Pump size comparison
Heres I how I install the pumps in the inner bucket holder thing. Most guys way over think this part. I offset them so they arent drawing from the same spot.
I like using this 3/8"NPT Y piece from mcmaster with brass fittings. The bulkhead fitting is from summit. The nut on there is just a spacer so it doesnt stick out of the top so far.
I used 1ft of the nice gates submersible hose ($20-$30/foot), and it was the perfect amount. You should measure the compressed distance of the bucket when its in the tank and use that length to cut your hose. Angle the hose so it doesnt have sharp bends. Everyone says the worm clamps are bad but I have several of these do just fine going on 4-5 years now. Just dont be an idiot and tighten the **** out of it.
I cut off the connectors and drill 3 holes in the top of the bucket for the 10ga wire (gas rated wire from summit). The pumps share a common ground that I use a self taping screw on the frame right beside the tank. Solder and heat shrink the wire connections if you can, but my soldering gun doesnt have enough umph to do 10ga effectively. In reality 12ga would probably be fine, but I like overkill.
Also heres an easy way to get to the tank,
Make sure you cut the stock feed line as close to the regulator as possible. This will be your return line and you want to make sure you point it right into the bucket and at the pumps. This will work very well to keep the bucket full and the pumps happy. Although I still recommend not going below 1/2 tank (why risk it?) when you are doing hard launches.
Top of the bucket,
Notice how I ran the 5/8" hose up to a filter by the filler neck to vent the tank. If you block off all the evap ports you wont be able to fill the tank (the air needs somewhere to go!). Not the most EPA friendly way, but works great. Make sure you put the filter higher than the filler neck.
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Novicebuilder (02-15-2020)
07-10-2016, 09:30 PM
#4
Again, my point is that the bucket still does nothing for you really.
You still run the risk of fuel starvation with anything less than 3/4 tank.
If you're going thru all that trouble, just put a real baffled tank or sumped tank and be done with it. I think dbrobs does one that goes in the stock spot and uses the stock module.
You still run the risk of fuel starvation with anything less than 3/4 tank.
If you're going thru all that trouble, just put a real baffled tank or sumped tank and be done with it. I think dbrobs does one that goes in the stock spot and uses the stock module.
