GMCtrk

iTrader: (27)

Welcome to the 4l80. It's a tremendous dog in certain respects compared to the 4l60. It should only be used in applications truly warranting it.

LPCWS6

I know the 4l60 has deeper 1st gear and you can't really compare the 2. That's why I pointed out the change of transmissions in my other post and that when I got my 218 cam I didn't have a apples to apples comparison. Keeping that in mind I went from a completely stock lq9 to one with AI ported heads, jfr 218 cam, a loose Circle D converter, a Eldebrock Pro Flow Intake with a 90mm TB, and now back to a stock intake with stock TB because I didn't like my truck out of boost. With my current set up I would like to think if I was N/A I'd still make enough power to easily roast the tires off idle even with the 4l80. That leads me to believe it's probably best to worry more about getting in boost sooner if you are worried about low end rather than worrying about making power out of boost. I sure don't feel like the power I make out of boost is anything to write home about. When in boost I make all the power my tuner feels is relatively safe for my SBE. Although I know other people have made more.

So not to jack the this thread but am I wrong in thinking that when you turbo a engine you are going to pretty much always lose power when out of boost compared to the same motor when N/A? Also that a smaller cam will always act like a smaller cam in a turbo motor the same way it would in a N/A motor if everything else stays the same and the grinds of the cams are similar?

Choda

iTrader: (1)

I just had a good write up about my triple12 experience. I also changed a ton of stuff when I did the cam swap. I felt as though my low end lost some too. It makes up for it once I get rolling ten fold but off idle, I have to agree and say the stock cam had more torque at idle to low rpm. End all. I still give this cam 5 stars. I bought it for POWER and to make my truck faster - it clearly does both.

There was one guy that did the cam and only the cam. Black00chevy or something. We should find his thread

Stock48 do you have results from someone that only did a cam swap? Even my dynos are 30* dif w different converters and engine parts.

kbracing96

iTrader: (26)

Yes, it's a 5.3 that's been bored .120 to a 5.7 and we put Autotec forged LS1 pistons in it with Gen VI rods. They are flat tops which will be good for me since I'm running 317 ported heads. I'd actually prefer to run some 799's or 243's to bump the comp up to 10ish like my flat top 6L I'm running now. I had an actual LS1 5.7 in the truck before the 6L and really liked it but it lost the headgasket at the track one day and torched a cylinder head, then the short block got stolen from me. That's why I'm going back to one.

ZO6Ted

I agree that until a turbo starts to spin it acts as a cork in the exhaust which does kill some low end. Agreed on the cam characteristics as well. I would just do the triple 12 if you are changing.

94heritage

My hot side is super long so the turbo is a little slower to light than most set ups and i could tell a huge difference down low from the stock cam. Where did you guys degree your cams at? Dyno results were 90hp better under the curve and 50hp more peak power. Ill have to see if i can get the dyno to send me an overlay of stock cam vs the triple 12.

smokeshow

iTrader: (16)

Last truck I had that made any power, went from a 6.0, triple 12 and bw 80/92 1.25 to a 385, 218/218/112 and 84/96. Literally everything else the same and the 385 used less fuel on 25psi than the 6.0 did on 23psi. That was turning the 385 an extra 200rpm before shifting. Unless you need the RPM and have a hot side that can handle the bigger cam or introduce a little more LSA/later IVC, you're better off with the smaller cam.

madmann26

iTrader: (7)

I had an OTS 216/224 cam when I had my Whipple. Whipple and turbo are very different but it was a torque monster down low.

crashmymax

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys triple 12 it is.

Stock48 also sales forged pistons for $760 he makes them custom so what is the optimum compression ratio for a turbo 5.7 with my 243's?

Do you think duel valve springs are needed?

was planning on stock rods but wondering if I should just upgrade now?

Need to save a little money on this build anyone no of cheaper forged pistons that would work well? Don't want to overspend if I don't have to. I don't have any HP goals. Just want the motor to be ready for any mood swings

LPCWS6

I would use better rods. The way I see it is if you are going to use stock rods why not save yourself even more money and just run a SBE. I don't know what a used 5.3 runs but I would think it's not much more the those pistons alone. By the time you are done spending money building some odd ball engine I'm sure you will have spend much more than if you just used a SBE and it won't be able to produce any more HP than a SBE if you use stock rods.