procharger pulleys
04-09-2014, 09:28 AM
#1
Fastest D1 Procharged Truck
Thread Starter
iTrader: (30)
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: mASSHOLE
Posts: 3,132
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
procharger pulleys
how can i be positive I'm running the right pulley for my head unit i called procharger and they said the P1 and the D1 have different pulleys the P1 has only one shoulder to hold the belt the D1 has two shoulders other then that they couldn't help me.
BS imo that they don't put part numbers on them
BS imo that they don't put part numbers on them
04-09-2014, 03:41 PM
#3
Fastest D1 Procharged Truck
Thread Starter
iTrader: (30)
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: mASSHOLE
Posts: 3,132
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i have a 3.85 6 rib already on the truck but i have no clue what its gonna make for boost I'm thinking in the 10-12 range
only reason i posted this is cause I've been having belt issues i blew one off a few days ago fell off the water pump i just bought a dayco laser alignment tool to check to make sure my pulleys are all inline
only reason i posted this is cause I've been having belt issues i blew one off a few days ago fell off the water pump i just bought a dayco laser alignment tool to check to make sure my pulleys are all inline
04-09-2014, 03:59 PM
#4
You can get a tensioner pulley that is "flanged" that may help.
I don't remember the Gates #'s on them...I just looked up the stock one and compared the dims and specs in the Gates list of pulleys.
http://www.gates.com/oreilly/PDFs/Pu...%20Listing.pdf
I even had several different diameters that I kept handy to change out when the belt began to stretch. (prolly still have some of them)
Changing the tensioner pulley was WAY easier than changing that damn belt.
The largest one I used looked like a wheel off a Snapper lawn mower!
When the belt got too loose for that one it was time for a new belt!
I don't remember the Gates #'s on them...I just looked up the stock one and compared the dims and specs in the Gates list of pulleys.
http://www.gates.com/oreilly/PDFs/Pu...%20Listing.pdf
I even had several different diameters that I kept handy to change out when the belt began to stretch. (prolly still have some of them)
Changing the tensioner pulley was WAY easier than changing that damn belt.
The largest one I used looked like a wheel off a Snapper lawn mower!
When the belt got too loose for that one it was time for a new belt!
Last edited by Superado; 04-09-2014 at 04:08 PM.
04-09-2014, 04:21 PM
#5
Fastest D1 Procharged Truck
Thread Starter
iTrader: (30)
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: mASSHOLE
Posts: 3,132
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've got the belt changing down pretty good now I've only had it on and off a few dozen times ill just keep a spare belt in the truck with some tools
I'm running a 114 belt thats the smallest i can go i tried a 113 no buano
I'm running a 114 belt thats the smallest i can go i tried a 113 no buano
04-09-2014, 04:31 PM
#6
The different tensioner pulleys gave me more belt sizes to choose from as well...if not using them just to take up the slack of a stretched belt.
I looked at changing stock idler pulley size but nothing would work with the ProCharger belt routing except the stock size.
As far as a tight fit new belt...I have removed the stock idler, put the belt on and then re-installed the idler...rolling the belt up on it til I could get the bolt started worked several times.
The belts stretch almost immediately so having the tensioner bottomed out was never a problem...it would be back within extent marks in minutes.
The larger diameter pulley on the tensioner increases the surface gripping the belt and helped me with my belt slip and belt tossing.
This was the reason I started looking for them in the first place.
Once you start getting that as good as it can get...make sure your WP "school bell" pulley is tacked onto the WP shaft.
I had two come off before doing so myself...one of which came off at WOT going down the track.
It bounced around like a pinball machine before exiting out from under the truck.
I know you've been on pt.net for years and probably have...but...
Have you relocated your ProCharger idler pulleys to give you more belt wrap on the compressor pulley?
That makes a HUGE difference!
I looked at changing stock idler pulley size but nothing would work with the ProCharger belt routing except the stock size.
As far as a tight fit new belt...I have removed the stock idler, put the belt on and then re-installed the idler...rolling the belt up on it til I could get the bolt started worked several times.
The belts stretch almost immediately so having the tensioner bottomed out was never a problem...it would be back within extent marks in minutes.
The larger diameter pulley on the tensioner increases the surface gripping the belt and helped me with my belt slip and belt tossing.
This was the reason I started looking for them in the first place.
Once you start getting that as good as it can get...make sure your WP "school bell" pulley is tacked onto the WP shaft.
I had two come off before doing so myself...one of which came off at WOT going down the track.
It bounced around like a pinball machine before exiting out from under the truck.
I know you've been on pt.net for years and probably have...but...
Have you relocated your ProCharger idler pulleys to give you more belt wrap on the compressor pulley?
That makes a HUGE difference!
Last edited by Superado; 04-09-2014 at 04:44 PM.
Trending Topics
04-10-2014, 12:15 AM
#8
Fastest D1 Procharged Truck
Thread Starter
iTrader: (30)
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: mASSHOLE
Posts: 3,132
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The different tensioner pulleys gave me more belt sizes to choose from as well...if not using them just to take up the slack of a stretched belt.
I looked at changing stock idler pulley size but nothing would work with the ProCharger belt routing except the stock size.
As far as a tight fit new belt...I have removed the stock idler, put the belt on and then re-installed the idler...rolling the belt up on it til I could get the bolt started worked several times.
The belts stretch almost immediately so having the tensioner bottomed out was never a problem...it would be back within extent marks in minutes.
The larger diameter pulley on the tensioner increases the surface gripping the belt and helped me with my belt slip and belt tossing.
This was the reason I started looking for them in the first place.
Once you start getting that as good as it can get...make sure your WP "school bell" pulley is tacked onto the WP shaft.
I had two come off before doing so myself...one of which came off at WOT going down the track.
It bounced around like a pinball machine before exiting out from under the truck.
I know you've been on pt.net for years and probably have...but...
Have you relocated your ProCharger idler pulleys to give you more belt wrap on the compressor pulley?
That makes a HUGE difference!
I looked at changing stock idler pulley size but nothing would work with the ProCharger belt routing except the stock size.
As far as a tight fit new belt...I have removed the stock idler, put the belt on and then re-installed the idler...rolling the belt up on it til I could get the bolt started worked several times.
The belts stretch almost immediately so having the tensioner bottomed out was never a problem...it would be back within extent marks in minutes.
The larger diameter pulley on the tensioner increases the surface gripping the belt and helped me with my belt slip and belt tossing.
This was the reason I started looking for them in the first place.
Once you start getting that as good as it can get...make sure your WP "school bell" pulley is tacked onto the WP shaft.
I had two come off before doing so myself...one of which came off at WOT going down the track.
It bounced around like a pinball machine before exiting out from under the truck.
I know you've been on pt.net for years and probably have...but...
Have you relocated your ProCharger idler pulleys to give you more belt wrap on the compressor pulley?
That makes a HUGE difference!
idk guy seem liked he was a Ham and Egger on the phone to me every time i call them seems like i get this go figure
04-15-2014, 03:43 PM
#9
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: florida
Posts: 1,416
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
114 sounds kind of big. With the d1sc and 4" I was using a 112.5 don't know if old bracket and new bracket would make a difference. When putting it on it had no slac trick was getting belt on all the rib pulley and I slid it on one of the idlers. If I tried any other way I could not get it on. I have a deal for you I'll give you my belt I took off when I sold the d1 and let you try the 4" pulley get an idea where you are with boost and you let me borrow the laser alignment tool. Also when I install my pulleys the side with the size marked on it I would face the blower. Seemed to align better and I never threw a belt 6500 shift point.
04-15-2014, 08:57 PM
#10
Fastest D1 Procharged Truck
Thread Starter
iTrader: (30)
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: mASSHOLE
Posts: 3,132
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
114 sounds kind of big. With the d1sc and 4" I was using a 112.5 don't know if old bracket and new bracket would make a difference. When putting it on it had no slac trick was getting belt on all the rib pulley and I slid it on one of the idlers. If I tried any other way I could not get it on. I have a deal for you I'll give you my belt I took off when I sold the d1 and let you try the 4" pulley get an idea where you are with boost and you let me borrow the laser alignment tool. Also when I install my pulleys the side with the size marked on it I would face the blower. Seemed to align better and I never threw a belt 6500 shift point.
thanks for the offer but I'm pretty sure I've got the problem fixed the reason it tossed the belt
1 i snapped the throttle really quick on and off
2 my alternator bracket was broken
ill try my 113 belt again but man it was really tight like my tensioner was bottomed out i thought of trying a smaller idler pulley