New forged egine boost break in
01-25-2015, 11:41 PM
#21
roller valvetrain doesnt mean squat when the bearings and etc have to seat, you also dont know if machine shop got every bit of metal out of the motor before assembly, so stating something is crap because of roller valvetrain is far from being on point.
in a case of a self contained power unit like a procharger yes, a magnacharger or even a whipple its fine
when you have a few thousand wrapped up into a turbo or turbos you should side on the side of caution
in a case of a self contained power unit like a procharger yes, a magnacharger or even a whipple its fine
when you have a few thousand wrapped up into a turbo or turbos you should side on the side of caution
Also, bearings don't seat.
...and the type of lifter (roller or tappet) has absolutely everything to do with a break in procedure.
01-26-2015, 05:29 AM
#22
Formerly ScreamingL
So let me ask you a question. Lets say the builder did leave a bunch of metal shavings in the motor. You think that **** won't make it to the turbo because your babying it?
Also, bearings don't seat.
...and the type of lifter (roller or tappet) has absolutely everything to do with a break in procedure.
Also, bearings don't seat.
...and the type of lifter (roller or tappet) has absolutely everything to do with a break in procedure.
You also read what you wanted as bearings don't seat but etc does...as in rings and bearings do break in
Never said anything About Babying
01-26-2015, 07:42 AM
#23
I saw a couple suggestions where people would like to remove the turbo. I say leave the turbo on and do what Atomic said. When I first did my build I made a bonehead mistake, and ruined my crank. It tore up the bearings and put material through the engine and turbo. It chewed the bearings up pretty good. I ended up getting a new crank and bearings. I disassembled it, cleaned, cleaned and cleaned more before assembly. I ran it 5k miles and tore the turbo apart. I saw absolutly zero wear on the internals of the turbo. It looked great, so if I could pump alot of debris through mine, very little to none would be a non issue. I say do the oil flushes, and then build your way up to power. I would say, don't make long hard pulls early off, wait at least 500 miles.
01-28-2015, 12:47 PM
#25
Staging Lane
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Ok so I get that ur saying. But if there are
Partials In motor which some times can
Happen! I would focus on the motor, only
Because it costs more to replace. I would
Break in like previous post say ! Run it
Drain oil remove filter and let filter drain
Put new oil and filter I just use 30sae
From advance or who ever is cheaper
For brake in. Now if you really want to know
If there is something in your motor take
Oil filter just removed and drained get a punch
Or screwdriver poke a hole in filter next to
Rolled seam at base of filter take tinsnips
And cut around base or I use a tubing or
Pipe cutter separate remove paper media
Lay out on table or bench and inspect both
Sides of paper if there is someting it will
Show. Also note oil filter only cleans a %
Of the oil it leaves pump then diverts to
Main galley,lifter galley,and filter. So don't
Cout on filter to catch everything!
Partials In motor which some times can
Happen! I would focus on the motor, only
Because it costs more to replace. I would
Break in like previous post say ! Run it
Drain oil remove filter and let filter drain
Put new oil and filter I just use 30sae
From advance or who ever is cheaper
For brake in. Now if you really want to know
If there is something in your motor take
Oil filter just removed and drained get a punch
Or screwdriver poke a hole in filter next to
Rolled seam at base of filter take tinsnips
And cut around base or I use a tubing or
Pipe cutter separate remove paper media
Lay out on table or bench and inspect both
Sides of paper if there is someting it will
Show. Also note oil filter only cleans a %
Of the oil it leaves pump then diverts to
Main galley,lifter galley,and filter. So don't
Cout on filter to catch everything!
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