Finally pinned my crank - A pictorial
08-20-2009, 10:14 PM
#31
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I've been using a chain wrench(plumbing dept at Sears) to keep the pulley from turning while removing and installing the pulley bolt. You have to add a few extra links to the chain because it isn't long enough to wrap all the way around the pulley. With the chain wrench you don't have to remove the starter motor. I'd like to know why you need a reamer. Are the pins tapered or is the drill bit undersize?
10-02-2009, 01:54 PM
#34
I've been using a chain wrench(plumbing dept at Sears) to keep the pulley from turning while removing and installing the pulley bolt. You have to add a few extra links to the chain because it isn't long enough to wrap all the way around the pulley. With the chain wrench you don't have to remove the starter motor. I'd like to know why you need a reamer. Are the pins tapered or is the drill bit undersize?
10-02-2009, 06:43 PM
#36
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That's a good point I hadn't thought of. How do you index the pulley to the shaft if you have to remove it in the future so the hole in the hub will line up with the hole in the shaft when you put the pulley back on? This is a problem because it has to be aligned perfectly or the pin won't go in without being damaged. Since this is an interference fit there is NO room for error. This is where a keyway is superior to pinning, but if you don't already have a keyway I think pinning is a viable alternative considering the cost of removing the crank and having a keyway machined into it.
10-02-2009, 08:24 PM
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If it took me 4 tries I'd be on the verge of giving up. With luck like that I wouldn't play the Powerball anytime soon. Redrilling would weaken the crank unless the holes were in near perfect alignment and you drilled only to the next oversize. I wouldn't attempt any other type of a redrill.
