I am dreaming about doing a forged 370ci. for my mud truck. If I can sell my current powertrain next year I think I'll give it a shot.

I'm thinking about forged flat tops, forged h-beams, stock crank, PRC 2.5 5.3 heads. A cam that pulls hard from 3000-7000 rpm. I am cam illiterate so I wonder how aggresive I can go and still be hydraulic and not have to fly cut?

I also am thinking about a 200-250 wet kit for when someone is doing a bounty hole only. Most of the time I will be btwn. 3500 & 7000 rpm motor. I think a radical cam/ head/ high stall setup would perform a lot better than my current 5.3 MP112 80E.

Oh yeah, when I do this I am going to build a fmvb TH400 for it. What do you guys think? Worth it?

CTC is sneaking up on us.. Any of you guys planning on going?

but still a long way to go.... (03' in sig.)

I ran a 13.39 @ 101.8 MPH with a 1.839 60 ft

I am thinking of adding a tvs 1900 or 2300 but running it somewhat conservative since its not a track queen and it is on stock internals, so not a crazy amount of boost. I would also reduce my stall to something lower

How much time could a supercharger deduct from my time slip.

Ohh yeah the truck weight was right at 4000 lbs without me in it (im 215lbs) and i am going to be shedding 150 lbs. off the weight of the truck.

Well, I was leaving the house yesterday morning (gently)and on the 1-2 shift it stopped pulling. Made it to the side of the road (still in sight of my house) called the wife and had her pull me backwards to the house, it was locked up when trying to pull it backwards, it went that way anyway courtesy of the suburban :) So I am trying to decide what to do now. I would really like to do the 80 swap but my truck is my dd and will never make over 400 hp so I cannot justify it. So is there anyone in the central ky area that can do a fairly stock rebuild with maybe a few upgrades? It already has a transgo shift kit and corvette servo so maybe just to fix the broken parts and freshen it up. Are these any harder to rebuild than a t350? I have done a couple of those and I am thinking about tackling this one, if I can't find someone local, cheap and reliable. I have been researching this for the last couple of minutes and I have almost convinced myself to try it, I plan on pulling it tomorrow to see what is broken. Any thoughts or advice let me know, I had been thinking about putting a converter in it so that is definitely going to happen while it is out :):)

Looking to buy a 4.8 long block. High mileage is ok. Just needs to run. Want a running engine to put into a swap i am doing in a 70GMC. Just needs to run to get it rolling around while plan 370+boost.

Let me know what you have.

so i have been having some battery issues due to the fact that its not my DD anymore. got a new battery today truck started perfect, shut it off and about 20 minutes later i go to leave and it will turn over, crank, then immediately die. Now its done this several times in the past, when the battery has been completely dead. i just let it sit for an hour then it cranks and runs like nothing ever happened. i allays just figured the computer needed some time to pull itself back together, and figure out what it was supposed to be doing. but this time its been about 4 hours and it still wont start.

i pulled a vacuum line to smell for gas to see if it was flooded, not the case.
TB and everything is clean.
its getting spark, and gas.

any ideas, or something else i should check?

oh and its the 99 in my sig

Anybody know any good or great performance shops in Houston, TX that I can take my JGP Silverado to have some work done too it? Already has a Radix maggie, 5.3L, Airaid Intake, Corsa Catback Exhaust.

Ever since I put my LQ4 back together (ported 853 heads, LS7 lifters, 210*/218* .551 lift on 116 LSA) I've had a ticking noise in what sounds to be the top end. The engine runs strong, but is pretty noisy. It seems to be the loudest on the passenger side of the engine. The whirring I can live with, but there also sounds like it has a slight knock to it as well. I'm pretty certain that it's coming from the valve train.

This is far from a radical combo and feel it should sound near stock. The lobes are a little aggressive, so I expected a little bit of noise, but you can barely hear the exhaust over the engine itself.
When using an adjustable push rod, my measured (via caliper) pushrod length at zero lash was 7.230. An extra .050 for lifter preload would put me at 7.280. I ordered 7.300 and threw it all together. On startup it sounded pretty nasty, but started quieting down as the lifters pumped up. I had a steady and consistent knock that was coming from the valve train.
After this I found many people say that wasn't enough preload and that the LS7 lifters like between .060 to .100. I ordered 7.350's and threw it back together. IMO, it's slightly better, but still much louder than what I had expected.

With 7.300's I had about 1 rocker bolt turn of preload past zero lash to 22 lb/ft, with the 7.350's I have right at 2 turns. Can anyone provide any insight to what this might be? Do just suck that bad when it comes to measuring for push rods? Is it possible that I've over shot the optimum preload and I'm now hearing the lifter cup bottoming out? Is there something else entirely that I may be missing? Thinking it could be rocker related, I did swap them between banks to see if the noise followed suit. It doesn't appear to.
Any insight someone can provide would be greatly appreciated. I'm getting close to calling defeat and taking it in to have another set of eyes and ears on it.

w/ 7.300 push rods http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vI0emQAcegk
w/ 7.350 push rods http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ziH1Y1KUUkw

Looks like im selling my project. Check out my build thread for more info on it. Bagged bodydropped, 5 lug conversion, ladder bars, wishbone set up and too too much to list. Its going to come with everything minus motor, trans and turbo set up. If anybody is interested send me a pm or post it in here. Heres some pics.
$8500 takes it all. I have at least 6k in rear end components. I have way to much money and time in this and if it sells, I hope it gets finished. I just bought a house and I know my truck is going to sit for a long time. Id rather sell it and see it get finished. I'll post a complete list of everything thats going with the truck in a few.

Link to build thread------> http://performancetrucks.net/forums/...d.php?t=453385

he had a 50 shot dry kit with a 10lb bottle on his integra and i was joking with him that he should give it to me since he needed some school books i have and he was like okay. Now I really have NO idea about nitrous except that its very touchy and that a window switch is KEY. from just skimming around i found that a 75-100shot would be fine, and he said he would help me install it. It would be cool if you guys could school me in the knowledge of the laughing gas world. I am sure there are threads about it but I didnt want to dig up old threads.

well after three days got my stainless ebay headers installed. only worked on it early in the morning for a few hours because its been hot and my patience seem to be running short these days. overall im glad i did it. price was right and my beer always taste a lil better after doing something myself. did my ss camaro a few years ago and this time went alot smoother took everyones advice and soaked all the bolts with pc blaster. arms are alot less scratched up no plastic cowl screws ripping up my forearms. ripped apart my # 8 msd wire taking them off though chose to do it while the engine was hot to get the bolts out easier and got excited with that wire. should have just wore gloves. very dissapointing about how the wires touch the header but for the price its hard to complain. tried to make a lil bracket like i saw in another thread but could get my hands in there to start bolts but have them tie wrapped off for now still need to make something permanent. driver side front sensor sits right aginst floor board so im going to need to beat on my floor board to give it room. couldnt get passenger side band clamp on because there was not enough room between o2 bung and y pipe bracket so i used supplied u bolt for that spot.

overall went pretty good. was able to fix my msd wire by cutting and recrimping connector was a pain had to lube boot up to slide it up the wire but eventually got it fixed. first time it fired up and ran smooth. i did install new spark plugs at the same time. no codes or check engine lights. wasent sure what to do with that pump thing and exaust cross over crap so i ripped out the cross over and just hooked up the one tube from the egr to the headers. now i have that pump thing just pumping out air when i start it, should i rip that stuff out or will it throw a code?

first drive felt good, it is louder and deeper but is quiet at idle. really livens up when you get on it though. i can deffianatly feel a SOTP difference though and thats what i was hoping. i installed a jantzer ported throttle body and ebay 90$ CAI a few weeks ago also and notice a slight improvement but i think it works much better now with the exaust. i have one cherry bomb extreme muffler with it dumped right before the axle. y pipe now hangs lower than tranny cross member wich isent good because that scraps all the time being so low but im sure i can get it fixed, again sounds mellow at idle and light load but sounds great with some throttle. need to get a cam and tune now really looking hard out the smallest of the lsr comp cams, any one have it yet? i think its like 215, 223 or something. would also like a fast truck intake to add but getting married in october so maybe next year.

thanks for reading i have been on here reading for a long time but i dont really post much but thought it might help someone else out as other post convinced me it was a worthwhile mod even being in ca. really get tired of the so called smog laws and gun laws but its still my choice to live here so i have nobody to blame, must be the awesome scenery and weather. ok beer time!

99 silverado 1500 4x4 5.3l
just looking to add power to my dd w.out having to sacrifice too much mpg

current mods

lpp headers
magnaflow exhaust
volant cai
asp pulleys
flex-a-lite e-fan
blackbear tune
msd 6a


future mods

tr 224/224-114 cam
comp valve springs
tr pushrods
yank tt 3000 converter
retune

is there anything else i need to add/upgrade?

Color matched flares to be exact? I can't find them anywhere online. I can find the OEM black flares no problem, but I want the color matched ones! any help?

My dad has a new body style rcsb 4.8 auto pickup. The truck started dripping oil on the driveway when it had 18k miles on it. He took it to the dealer and they put in a new rear main seal and oil pan gasket. This fixed the problem until yesterday.

Now the truck has 22k miles on it and when my dad parked his truck yesterday it leaked out about 1/2 a quart of oil within 2 hours. It is all over the bottom of the oil pan and the cross member and sway bar. He is going to take it back to the dealer Tuesday and have them fix it under warranty again. Is this a common problem?

I know dozens of trucks with the same motor with over 100k miles that do not leak a single drop even some of them abused farm trucks. He is getting aggravated with the problem because a truck this new should not leak. Has anyone else had experience with a similar problem?

is there any hidden tow package i can get to work with my rollpan? i know street scene makes one to fit their rollpans but idk if it will fit on my rollpan or not....and i think my rollpan is a sir micheals rollpan, but im not sure, its been awhile since i got it lol...

here some pics if they'll help any