Ken in AZ

After taking with a few folks I'll just be adding the ported L92 intake and getting it tuned.

If I do a cam, I'll get one spec'd for my application. I'll be looking for more torque down low and off idle performance. However, since my trans popped, I'll be re-stalling my converter to see how that improves driveability down low before I change out the cam.

I kinda want to change the cam, been told it won't do much for me as compared to what I have already, but with the lower lift numbers it'll be nicer on my valvetrain.

I'll keep this thread updated.

Ken in AZ

Made some headway on the intake, interestingly, the inlet is 94mm where as the throttle body is less than that, I think it's like 92ish at the mounting flange. So I'll be port-matching that as well.

<a href="http://s35.photobucket.com/user/avg30et/media/807F79E4-6D77-43DC-8224-0E9D7061D035.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d151/avg30et/807F79E4-6D77-43DC-8224-0E9D7061D035.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 807F79E4-6D77-43DC-8224-0E9D7061D035.jpg"/></a>

FYI - I tried to use several methods for gross removal of material, and the only thing that really worked was a coarse carbide bit. It removed material pretty fast, but not too fast that is wasn't controllable.

On some pictures I found online, the runner lengths were changed by shaving down the interior wall. On others I found it wasn't touched at all. Not really sure why the difference and would it really effect the powerband, but I shaved mine down a little in hopes of it helping high rpms but retaining the low rpm advantages of the stock piece. The whole reason I'm switching is to get that low end rpm grunt back.

As you can see I have made some goofs when slicing the two manifolds:

<a href="http://s35.photobucket.com/user/avg30et/media/FA4BD660-5463-4A2E-9B2B-EF5276991785.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d151/avg30et/FA4BD660-5463-4A2E-9B2B-EF5276991785.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo FA4BD660-5463-4A2E-9B2B-EF5276991785.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s35.photobucket.com/user/avg30et/media/D23BFAA4-C944-4A78-97F9-1EA7A5ECEA65.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d151/avg30et/D23BFAA4-C944-4A78-97F9-1EA7A5ECEA65.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo D23BFAA4-C944-4A78-97F9-1EA7A5ECEA65.jpg"/></a>

After doing a lot of research on what I will use to bond the two halves back together and fill the holes, I've decided on the Marine version of JB Weld. It's the only one listed to withstand petroleum and water, which is what this intake will be subjected too.

madmann26

iTrader: (7)

You should be closer to 500hp with that setup. I would have a cam spec'd for your setup.

Wolf:

Your low end is coming from the advance that is ground into your cam. That helps a good deal.

Ken in AZ

[QUOTE=madmann26;5366774]You should be closer to 500hp with that setup. I would have a cam spec'd for your setup.[QUOTE]

That's what I was thinking too - Just bought a leakdown tester and compression tester and will be checking both to make sure something isn't wrong. I still need to pull the plugs too. I did do a cylinder balance test at 2000rpm and the rpms dropped consistently across all eight.

Wolftrk99

iTrader: (5)

Can only imagine what this vvt cam thats going into my yukon will be with a 116+10....

Ken in AZ

And have heard of the Hi-Ram soaking up HP due to heat soak, that thing gets hella hot

Ken in AZ

Started glueing it back together and I have an idea about how to reduce or eliminate the chances of manifold flex without internal supports.

I'll be attaching square tubing supports on the top of the manifold which in theory should eliminate the flex. At least that's what I "think" based on watching that video and where it flexes. It scares me that people say they can see the flex in the stock manifold.

Anyway - here it is with a bag of dog food to distribute the weight in a more even fashion.

<a href="http://s35.photobucket.com/user/avg30et/media/36E0DDD8-CD42-404C-B2DA-B13C5DD9BD08.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d151/avg30et/36E0DDD8-CD42-404C-B2DA-B13C5DD9BD08.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 36E0DDD8-CD42-404C-B2DA-B13C5DD9BD08.jpg"/></a>

Ken in AZ

Results are in, and even without a tune - holy shiitake! So much better already!


I really don't feel like I lost any top end at all, and gained a hella lot in the low end. Very happy I made the switch.

seriously miles better than it was before and I can tell the tune if off, you can kinda hear it in the top of second gear. Rpm's kinda waiver a bit. And btw, the mph reads about 4mph slow ;-)

Ken in AZ

And here's the intake flex. I hope it's not too bad but I bet it'd be much worse without the external support rails.


They didn't fit quite like I had hoped. I split a 1" piece of square tubing down the middle and used one half for each side. In hindsight I would have left it the whole 1" square tube on each side. Also I'd add a middle cross support somehow.

Overall I'm pleased. It doesn't look the part, but it goes like hell!

Ken in AZ

Also, hand ported the TB and checked the DBW system for full throttle

<a href="http://s35.photobucket.com/user/avg30et/media/62C72E2B-CCCF-47AC-BD8E-F82B1D549033.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d151/avg30et/62C72E2B-CCCF-47AC-BD8E-F82B1D549033.png" border="0" alt=" photo 62C72E2B-CCCF-47AC-BD8E-F82B1D549033.png"/></a>

The back side had to be opened up a lot, probably 2mm to match the intake snout. I was surprised it was so different but I was glad I checked. I definitely could have done a better job on the backside of the throttle plate but I was worried about removing too much material.