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Lots of ways. 4.56 gears. CAI. Headers. Msd wires. Ngk plugs. exhaust upgrades. cutouts. remote mount turbo. GSM supercharger. try KRCperformance for cam info, (they also do custom turbo applications). N/a starts in the 16's stock and with some modding N/A are in the mid 13's or better. Forced induction and or nitrous gets you 12's easily.
They go faster then 16's stock. Heck my old 5.9 did a low 16 stock with 100hp less. I've seen a stock qc 4x4 go 15.8 and a 2500 long box also go 15.4. a reg cab short box will be 14.7-15.1 stock.
But like he says, lots of mods out there. If you go with a big krc cam you'll need to get an smt-6 to control your A/F and get it to idle right.
Gears and 2800 stall converter is a good place to start, those two mods alone will make a hemi very fun to drive off the line, and easily cut .5 off your 1/4mile time. Headers are worth a couple 10ths. Exhaust a 10th. 6.1L srt-8 cam is worth 3/10ths, if you go with a bigger krc cam and the tuning, you will see a lot more. CAI is good for a 1/10th, 3/10th if you can get some direct air from outside to it. Then there are ported heads that are worth upwards of half a second too. Slicks will also help out a ton, especially if you got a converter.
I haven't seen anyone run all the mods listed above, but I'd say a low 13 is easily doable with them.
2007 Red Rock Grand Cherokee SRT-8: 13.5@104mph, track elevation 2300ft, bone stock.
Is he is doing the work himself? I'd recommend going with the 6.1L srt-8 cam, $1500 isn't enough to do a bigger cam and a customer controller. Also what year is his, if it's an 06 with the MDS, it's a whole lot more work to get a different cam. I beileve KRC is offering something to help the 06's.
An Edge mild street converter (really the only one availble for the hemi atm) can be bought for about $400, my trans shop charged me $300 to get it installed as I don't have the shop/tools to do it.
A 6.1L cam $120, beehive ls1 springs $180, retainers $30 and rods (not sure)can all be bought from Art at Henson Motors down in Texas. He's a great guy to work with and is the cheapest by far. http://www.hensonmotors.com/ 1-800-530-jeep
If you can't do it yourself, it cost me about $700 bucks for the install. The cam is easy, the springs are a b*tch. You will want the Superchips Programmer to go with this, mostly to get the extra rev's out of it. Can be had for roughly $400. Be aware there is a tonar ring issue with the hemi, though most cases it's caused by over rev'ving with an underdrive pulley on. More info here on that issue. more hemi bad news
I'd do an Electric fan, which could be done for as cheap as $150 bucks.
Thanks alot, yeah we might be doing the work ourselves. Damn a cam for his truck is cheap. He already has the superchip programmer and a exhaust system. So the cam and convertor will be what he is probably going to get. How much power could he be looking at with those mods?
6.1L cam, Edge street TC, and Superchips programmer. The cam choices are getting good but unfortunately the custom tuning choices suck, aka none. The 6.1L cam is cheap, does not trigger any CEL's, and will pass emissions if required in your area.
Superchips will disable certain computer re-learning functions else any initial mod gains WILL get over-written mainly due to Dodge using Speed Density tuning ( no MAF ).
The cam swap is VERY similar to the current GM motor so if you can do your Silvo you can do the Dodge ( leave intake on, remove push rods, spin the cam a few revolutions to seat the lifters in the cups, then pull cam ). I have done both types of engines and can attest to this personally.
The DIY cam, TC, install, and SC programmer should come in at or under $1500. After that look at headers, CAI, e-fans, and gears.
Well I dyno'd 320/334 but I got long tubes and a CAI above that, he should be just over 300hp to the tires would be my guess. Stock should be 260-270hp.
Aye those 6.1L cam's are cheap, the KRC ones are double, and will yield better much bigger gains, but our stock computers just can't adapt to them.
The 6.1L cam has been said to give roughly 25rwhp. It does tame things down low and make it scream high, which is why you get the stall too, it will bring your low end back to life.
I thought the 5.7l hemi's had 345 hp, that means they lose 75-85 HP from drive train loss, that is crazy. That type of power loss is like with my VR4 with All wheel drive, Why would the dodges lose so much power to the wheels?
Only speculation and rumor but to maintain the 7/70 powertrain warranty the computer control for the engine and tranny are extremely conservative. There was a huge uproar over this when folks started hitting the dyno. There were a few letters written and legal threats made but in the end DCx replied "Like it or leave it". The rated crank HP is as advertised, and no promises were made for wheel HP so they were covered ( unlike the Mazda RX8 issue ).
Case in point, the 03 models had the torque management interface on an external wire. Pull/cut the wire and your 1/4 mile times dropped by 0.3 seconds! Did we add 30HP, the average rating for that kind of improvement ( 10hp is around 0.1 second )?!? Nope, just prevented the tranny from slipping during the 1-2 shift so it feels smoother.
Replacing the TC dropped 0.2 seconds from my 60' time. Again did I add 40hp?!? No, just the **** computer doing its thing, protecting the engine and drivetrain.