melition

Well, i tried my luck with fullsizechevy and noone would help me out. I really need some advise here.

I purchased a 97 c1500 about two years ago, and it had an oil leak to begin with. I threw it off as the front main and figured id get around to it. Two weeks later it locked up on me, my guess is bad intake mani gaskets and drove it with bad oil too long.

Anyways, i rebuilt the motor with all new gaskets and what not, new timing cover and didnt use rtv on the oil pan gasket. It leaked out between the pan gasket and the timing cover.

So round two, i dropped the pan and replaced gasket with some rtv. A day later i have a baseball sized puddle under it. Went like this for about 2 months, until i did a cam swap earlier this week. Pulled the pan, straightened it out and no rtv used. Surprise surprise, worse than ever now. So i pulled it again, went overboard with the right stuff rtv, and yet its still friggin there. Granted not near as bad, but still leaking.

At this point im thinking its just a bad oil pan, but i really am tired of buying new gaskets and oil. So does anyone have suggestions?

Edit: i do know for sure that it isnt the front main seal leaking. This is the third timing cover that has been on the truck since ive owned it, and ive been under it while its running and watched it leak out. Its definitely coming from between the gasket and timing cover at the very lowest point.

SEHunter

Ahh, the old infamous SBC oil pan leak. Been there and as you say, its frustrating. You didn't get very specific on the gaskets youve used so ill just throw this out there. If youre using a gasket like a Felpro one-piece, youre not supposed to use silicone. Silicone is only for cork gaskets except a dab in the 4 corners where the oil pan meets the block. Even that is a ford vs chevy type debate.

Many try and love a felpro one piece. Follow the mfg recommended install directions. If you use cork, a smear of good RTV is a good seal, assuming your pan isnt bent up and youre not over torqeing it. I would confirm the pan is straight at the sealing surface, get a new set of corks and smear with a good RTV like permatex black or grey. Right Stuff is one heck of a sealer but it sets up so fast and makes me rush the job. Use brake cleaner or the like and get the mating surface as clean and dry as possible. Tighten just snug then go back after an hour or so and torque to the mfg spec. Its nomwhere near as tight as many assume. You may already know all this since you seem to be building engines but just sayin....