Hey guys I tuned my truck with a tune that was pulled from various other tunes and came up with something that works better than what I had, but still getting me tons of KR. I have a 2000 Silverado with a Whipple at about 5-6psi and a 6.0L. I am attaching my EFI log, and wondering if anyone can help me with this. I think I am running out of fuel based on my LT's, but maybe someone can point me in the right direction. Thanks.

wideband would be more accurate. also if your getting knock retard or possibly audible knock you need to get off the throttle .im also guessing your running a non intercooled whipple so iats are also probably up there not helping . do you have any logs?

I attached my current log on the first post. It is with EFI Live. IATs when knock occurs is around 144 F. Yes, it is non-intercooled.

Thats fairly high for iat's.. I would add a meth or ic....

What about my LT's in the 12's?!

Where do you have your fuel enrichment set out? Post up your tune.

Here it is.

You need to log your GM.INJ1PW and this CALC.INJ1DC to see if the injector max out. I would get wide band to see where AFR is. You should be going into fuel enrichment some where after 95kpa.

I have an OS that doesn't support either of those PIDs. I wish I had the Duty Cycle one, that would really help.

IF was me i would move up to a cos3 to get boost settings. I would up grade your injects to of min. 8.1 for 6lb. Your b3605 way to lean after 90kpa.

Here what you b3605 should look like.
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff48/russell1978/b3647.jpg
in order for that pid to work you need these pid loged
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff48/russell1978/injector.jpg

How can I upgrade to COS3? Also, I do have the 8.1L injectors in there. I have tuned for them.

Check out EFIlive web site
http://download.efilive.com/Tutorials/Interactive/How%20to%20Load%20a%20Custom%20Operating%20System. htm

So going to COS3 will give me the ability to monitor DC?

Why do you have your flow rate set to 29.948341 then. I think 8.1 should 43.82 somthing.

How do you change your units? I have tried changing the data units to the imperial units and it will not take.

BTW, do you have MSN messenger or anything like that so we can talk quicker?

The Co3 will give more controller when you go into boost
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff48/russell1978/boost.jpg

BTW, do you have MSN messenger or anything like that so we can talk quicker?
No i don't.

How can I set the units in EFI then? I have tried for the B3605 and it will not set them to imperial.

How do you change your units? I have tried changing the data units to the imperial units and it will not take.
Under edit configure display unit. Then you have go though and highlight the ones you want to change to imperial.

I got it. Thanks a lot for your help. So you think my injector flow rate needs to be higher?

How can I set the units in EFI then? I have tried for the B3605 and it will not set them to imperial.
If you highlight and right click it will let change it by row or column.

I got it. Thanks a lot for your help. So you think my injector flow rate needs to be higher? yes it should set at this 48.49827788.

Here is cool excel sheet.

Are those 8.1's rated 42lbs/hr @ 43.5psi?

Sorry man I'm not shore. I know they are 42lb/hr

yes they flow 42lb/hr @ 43.5 but our fuel pressure set at 58psi so they flow more because of the higher psi.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Delphi-Marine-8-1L-42lb-Fuel-Injectors-NEW-Set-8_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ350216943558

Why do you go with the first number in the spreadsheet and not fill in the values increasingly?

Also, on my B3605, mine goes MAP vs. IATs yours is MAP vs. RPM. Do I need to change this, or will I get this in the new COS?

Why do you go with the first number in the spreadsheet and not fill in the values increasingly? I don't know what year your truck is. If the truck has return line on the fuel rail then would past the first number all way down, but if your truck doesn't have return line then you copy all those values in to your tune. When you up grade to the cos3 i would think the label would change.

Ok. What have you changed in your tune? You said that you took a few tunes and made your own. Have you done any AutoVE yet? Or set up your PE tables? But first things first is you need to get you IFR table setup correct. COS3 would be better for you. You really need to do some reading on tuning before you go into boost. You are way lean and im sure you are getting some real KR. So do some reading. Maybe wire the bypass open till you get your fueling figured out. You dont want to run the risk of hurting the motor.

Also i used to have a whipple supercharger....R you running the Whipple electronics? If so take that crap off there. It will cause nothing but problems when you are tuning. I think that 43lb injectors are a must for you and an inline pump just for insurance.

It is a 2000 Silverado. I don't think it has the return line. I have changed transmission settings, pulled the VE table from a tune that had a radix. Also, I do realize that my IFR is off. I am going to reprogram with that change and start from there. If I don't have a solid foundation, then I can't do the AutoVE.

If its a 2000 silverado like mine then you have a return style fuel system. Which means that your IFR table is going to be all the same down the line.

Ok. What have you changed in your tune? You said that you took a few tunes and made your own. Have you done any AutoVE yet? Or set up your PE tables? But first things first is you need to get you IFR table setup correct. COS3 would be better for you. You really need to do some reading on tuning before you go into boost. You are way lean and im sure you are getting some real KR. So do some reading. Maybe wire the bypass open till you get your fueling figured out. You dont want to run the risk of hurting the motor.

Also i used to have a whipple supercharger....R you running the Whipple electronics? If so take that crap off there. It will cause nothing but problems when you are tuning. I think that 43lb injectors are a must for you and an inline pump just for insurance.

You need to get a wide band to see what your AFR. This must to do the auto V.E.

How much would a good wideband be to get installed? So I have also changed my PE mode enable to 40% TPS, mine was at stock values. The only question I have is the EQ ratio. Do I need to change this at all? I have by coolant temp and by RPM. I saw one tune that zeroed out the coolant temp and went by RPM only.

Have you zeroed out table B3609? If not you need to do this since with a whipple supercharger the boost comes in very quick. Are you running the whipple electronics?

Also you can get a Wideband for around 300 depending on what you go with. I run the AEM wideband. they are very easy to install. If your tuning with your O2 sensors then you will have to have another o2 bung welded in. But they are very very easy to install.

Yes, that has been zeroed out. I am not running the crappy whipple electronics, just went to 42# marines and am trying to get the tune right. I haven't tuned it since I had ls1edit, which was WAY less of a tool than this is. So what is the difference in the PE tables versus the VE tables? They both add fuel but in different ways?

Yes, that has been zeroed out. I am not running the crappy whipple electronics, just went to 42# marines and am trying to get the tune right. I haven't tuned it since I had ls1edit, which was WAY less of a tool than this is. So what is the difference in the PE tables versus the VE tables? They both add fuel but in different ways?

Yes they do. PE is power Enrichment. this is very important to get this setup correct in a supercharger application. But your VE table is also very important because this is the base of your tune. The way i look at VE, is how much air is coming into the cylinder and how much fuel needs to be added to achieve a AFR. Without it tuned correct you are just guessing with the rest of the tune. You need to get a wideband first, that way you can do AutoVe tuning. This way is much easier because it makes the process very quick and much easier to dial in. Plus you can see exactly what your AFR is at a certain RPM or Kpa. If it was me driving your truck i would stay out of boost till you get a wideband and can get the fuel nailed down. Thats the last thing you want to do is guess at a AFR with boost.

Ok, well something I did in this tune it really doesn't like. It seems like I am getting too much fuel now. It will idle like complete crap and then just die. Can you take a quick peek at it for me?

Well I changed the flow rate down to like 40.799 and it doesn't die anymore, but driving around, it is getting too much fuel because it starts bogging down. At idle LT's are at 25%!!!

I have 42lb marine injectors and i have my IFR at 5.2969 I have mine setup for Grams/second.

you have your setup wrong. You have it at 6.1094. Change your stuff to Grams/second

Grams/second is showing me 5.1406 after I made the change and now it will idle ok, but when I drive and after like second gear it is bogging down like it is getting too much fuel. I changed my commanded afr table B3605 and now take a look.

You need to log your truck. You need to use the scan tool to tell if it is pulling timing because of KR.

and you said before that you took a few tunes and made yours. what is that Main VE table from? 5.3L or 6.0L? You have a 6.0L right? Also you should upgrade your OS to an O2' OS. Personally i would run COS3 so you have to boost VE table.

So what does the wide band say (rich or lean)??????
Here made some adjustment see if this help. You will need to do auto ve to get stuff back inline for the new injectors.

I dont think he has one man. I was inquiring about getting one. If i was you Will i would be ordering one right now. That way you wont have any question for us if you are running lean or rich. You will know this and you will be able to get your Ve table correct. If your Ve table is incorrect then you may be adding to much fuel in certain cells or at a specific Kpa. Im not trying to push you into getting one because i think its important....its the most important tuning device you can have along with the scan tool.

Yes it is the 6.0L and I did take a VE from a 6.0L. I am going to test your tune Russell.

Well I am planning on getting one, but right now I need to get the truck running right again so I can drive it tomorrow. I guess I will just have to go back to my old tune. :(

With Russell's tune it is the same thing. Still idles fairly rough and when driving I give it gas and just bogs down and will not move like too much fuel. LT's still at 25%.

Alright as a further test, it looks like my idle and bog down problems lie with my IFR. I changed it back to 29.9 and it is running good, but I am getting TONS of KR and at partial throttle, I only have duty cycle of 32%. Here is a log with everything tuned and IFR at 29.9.

You guys still with me?

Man all can tell you is buy a wide band and switch over to the cos3. The KR could be from you being lean we don't know. Sorry man i don't know.

Well actually I got rid of the KR pretty much with going with PE, but when it gets into PE mode, I loose power, almost like it is getting too much fuel. I am attaching my latest log with 15% increase in VE table and PE enabled.

Well actually I got rid of the KR pretty much with going with PE, but when it gets into PE mode, I loose power, almost like it is getting too much fuel. I am attaching my latest log with 15% increase in VE table and PE enabled.

15% across the board? the entire VE table? Thats alot man. Get that Wideband so we can help you. Doing Auto VE and having the wideband is going to be key. Your just guessing and you will continue to have problems if you dont get it dialed in the right way. Tuning is no guessing matter. It takes time and alot of effort to get it spot on. Guessing can get you close on a NA motor but FI and you can go:bomb: Dont risk it. Spend the money on a WBO2 or you will spend thousands later

Running to rich can be like running to lean on an engine.

Well I found the LC-1 on ebay brand new for $159. I am going to order one shortly. In the mean time, will I be ok running like I am? Also, are those widebands hard to install? I am not good with welding for the sensor.

Just stay out of boost till you get that thing in. Thats all i can say.

Im sure an exhaust shop would weld one in for you for really cheap. Dont sweat it. They are very easy to install. Just follow the direction for calibration and install and your good to go.

Hmm... staying out of boost with a whipple is hard. I get boost just driving normally. How come before I started messing with this I was getting hardly any KR? Only at certain times. Now after messing with it I am getting KR a lot more.

Not sure. Very hard to say. Put it back to the tune that you had to start with till you get the WB. Only the numbers will tell. Just dont get nuts and start changing tables. You have to take the right steps in order to keep things on track. Changing one table can change a number of other tables at the same time. Just hang tight and be safe about it. That WB will be like your lifeline to that motor when tuning.

Is it possible that I could have ruined my O2s because when I was first changing the tune I had the IFR messed up and it was flooding the engine.

Alright, now going back to the stock tune, I am getting rough idle! Could I have ruined my O2's running it too rich?

have you changed your knock sensors i changed mine and my tuner set the knock sensors at a lower setting my exhaust was making false knock but like every one said you need a wide band o2s. i never got wide band o2s but i welded a bung so my tuner could tune with his wide band. and now my truck runs great.