Yes, I know gramatically incorrect, but you opened the post now didn't you.

Well, I learned something new today. Sorta anyway. I can weld now, I'm a hack, but I welded something and it stays together.

I am installing headers on my car, but the tranny crossmember only allows for a single exhaust system. So I did some reading ( http://www.maliburacing.com/dual_crossmember_mod.htm ), and rather then buy a new crossmember for $200, I spent $25 and made my own.

Work was slow today so I took off. I picked up some angle and a new grinder (ours finally ate itself). I went down to the shop and grabbed the junk tranny crossmember for the Malibu, bolted it on the car. I had already made a box out of some angle. I marked the crossmember, got in a hurry and hacked it clean to death.




I am not sure exactly what happened, but I clearly cut it way to big. So I went ahead and tacked it together as you can see. I then took it off the car, laid it on the good crossmember and marked its position. I then slowed way down, took the good crossmember, clamped it in the vise on the work bench and slowly notched it little by little. This time I decided to leave the top of the crossmember intact rather then making some sort of jig. I made another box out of angle, and hammered it in to an ever so snug and tight fit. I then proceeded to continue with my hack welding until everything appeared to be solid. I ground it down, ran another weld around, and ground it down again. I then shot it with some black paint just as it was time for us to clean up and head home.





I have some welding books. I guess now is the time to read. My buddy only welds exhaust (thin metal), and uses a 110 lincoln welder with flux wire. I kept having alot weld splashing about, and had slag all over I had to ground down and clean up. Anyone have any idea why? Was I welding to hot? It wasn't blowing holes in the metal.

 

I'm an amateur welder and I'm sure an expert welder could minimize all the slag, but when you use flux core it's just the nature of the beast. Adding an Argon or Co2 bottle and you'll minimize slag.

 

A 110 welder is usually only good for sheet metal.. The spatter your getting is mostly the flux.. A 220 welder and a bottle of gas is the only way to get a nice clean weld on thicker gauge steel/metal.. As with any welding just be sure when you get the arc started that you keep a steady motion either from side to side or down and across. There are more then 1 method to getting a nice weld.. Also remember when ever trying to tac something together to make a single tack @ one corner then flip it over and to the opposite corner, then the other 2 remaining sides, as the metal will pull to the tac.. I don't consider my self a expert, but def am pretty freaking good... BOOKS ONLY TEACH SHOW MUCH THE BEST way to get good is practice... I would have also used a piece of thick wall pipe, for that not channel, to keep the strength there, or weld another piece of channel on top of that one, jmo..

 

Thanks for the tip.

There is no room for much of anything. The crossmember nearly touches the floor of the car. I used 2 pieces of angle weld together to form the channel. Maybe it's not the best route, but given some of the other stuff I have seen people do on these, it should hold up well. Sometimes you just have to use what you have available. The crossmember I started with, had simply been cut out for exhaust and nothing put back in, this has got to be stronger then that, and the guy was drag racing the car like that.

I understand that a book isn't going to teach you how to physically do it, but it should help me to understand what I am doing wrong and how to correct it.

 

I am professional welder I geuss.Union sheet metal worker certified in GMAW 1/4 mild steel and under.Soon to be flux core added to the list.


Try this if you can with the 110 flux core.
1.Try not to weld off an extension cord.
2.Use a plug closest to your power source.(Breaker panal or transformer)
3.lift up the door to the machine read the chart and set it according to what you are welding.Most machines have this chart.It is a very good starting point.
4.Use a new tip on the torch.
5.Make sure the ground is good.(connected to bare metal).


Flux core can weld nice and with great penatration.If you are in the wind GMAW will not touch what you can do with flux core.It is very versatile and has many uses.
Ironically today I was tacking 1/4" steel plates down for duct supports with flux core.

 

WOW, hadn't heard that before. I was connected direct to the plug, close to the panel. My buddy set the welder to what he thought it should be at. The tip isn't old but not new, and I used the grinder to get a good ground.

I guess there is alot to just having some experience under your belt. And that whole, use recommended settings thing.

My last little bit, I was actually starting to get a bead to start forming and the splatter was very little. But every time it would splatter it would mess up my bead. Is that something I am doing wrong, or just inexperience?

 

9 times out of 10 the setup is culprit to a bad bead.Especially with flux core there is a lot of room for error with it .As long as your hand is some what steady the bead will be decent.Sometimes the wire will get wrap up inside the spool and hang up on it self.Possibly the material you are welding had impurities not likely though.If the machine was used a lot could been maxed on the duty cycle.

Jus remember Practice doesn't make perfect.
Perfect pratice makes perfect.

In other words
If your setup isn't right forget bout it.

 

Thanks

I have been considering getting a descent MIG welder. If we are able to get his new house with a garage, it might finally be time for me to invest in one.

 

Closer pictures from my second attempt