Hey Guys,
I, like a couple others, am toying with the idea of spraying through my radix. Guess the easiest route would be to go with a wet kit and tune.... most likely the tune would remove timing at WOT and adjust the fueling, probably down? , as I'm guessing the default for a NOS solenoid would be to run extra rich with fuel. Could possibly adjust with pills on the fuel side and not have to change the WOT fueling in the tune? I wouldn't want to spray all the time so then my tuning wouldn't be right unless I'm spraying. Guess I could have the two tunes and just load the NOS tune when I'm ready to spray. Anyway I don't like these options.

Guess where I am going with this is back to a dry shot. I've read that there are fueling tables the PCM will default to should it detect the MAF gone bad. Think it would be possible to wire the nitrous kit such that it would also disable the MAF and trick the PCM into using this table when its armed. Tune this table for you nitrous runs. Perhaps also kicking in a fuel pump voltage booster for more fuel. Question then would be the timing. I've not read about any default timing tables the PCM will fall to should a sensor fail? Anybody ever hear of such things?

Sorry If I'm rambling. Needing to take on another project :)

You could just get a timing tuner from full throttle . How does the truck run with spray? I just hooked mine up but am waiting for a new fuel pump first and have almost 10 psi.

You could just get a timing tuner from full throttle . How does the truck run with spray? I just hooked mine up but am waiting for a new fuel pump first and have almost 10 psi.

Saw the shots of your setup. Many will be curious how it goes. Keep us up to date. I'm watching Slowhoe also. :secret2 :

I haven't put the NOS on yet. Don't even have the parts. In my planning stages. Still haven't found a workable solution to spraying. Ideal would be a direct port, which I don't think will fit a radix, and a dual tune that you don't have to physically switch out.

just do a tune with the normal stuff and then nitrous tune when tow/haul is pressed

just do a tune with the normal stuff and then nitrous tune when tow/haul is pressed

Good idea but tow haul button only effects transmission related controls.

Your comment did get me into looking at the tables. There is a high octane and low octane spark advance table. Anybody know how these 2 tables are used? Now have the possiblility of using a timing and fuel table and timing table for nitrous?

I've done a little more research. Seems that if you were to tie into the maf with the arming switch for your NOS system, disabling it when you arm your NOS you can tune two tables in the PCM for your nitrous system the two major things, timing and fuel.

MAIN SPARK Advance - LOW OCTANE.

From the help section of HP Tuners
" If the engine has been operating for a moderate time without any Knock Retard then Knock Learn is zero and the interpolation favors the High Octane table, if Knock has been detected then the interpolation will move towards the Low Octane table. During MAF failure the Knock Learn is set to maximum and the Low Octane table is used. "

The PCM will also revert to the PRIMARY VE table which I think you could use to help tune fueling. I'm thinking this can be done with a dry system.... Arm your system. It disconnects the MAF. The PCM then reverts to the Low Octane table which you can tune for the right timing. At the same time you've rigged a fuel pump booster to come in at WOT for the extra fuel, coupled with Primary VE table tuning , surely you could tune the right fueling somewhere in all this?

Well, my MAF is before where I have the nozzle in my intake. It comes right after my airbox with the radix. So the nos doesn't go through my sensor. Pics would help too.

Well, my MAF is before where I have the nozzle in my intake. It comes right after my airbox with the radix. So the nos doesn't go through my sensor. Pics would help too.

Thats where you would want to introduce NOS on a wet system. After the MAF. Your setup will work. Will work better with tuning, timing being the concern. It's a catch 22. Which do you tune for, Boosted or Boosted + N20.

Sorry I don't have any pictures. Don't even have a kit to install. :) My install would be just like you are doing except a dry shot. I'm trying to start a discussion on alternative ways to do a dry shot on the radix, besides spraying before the MAF and allowing the PCM to add fuel. I'm still wary of introducing fuel into the SC. All the talk of puddling, backfires, and possibly eating at the screw coatings. A way that will allow the truck to run at a proper tune and safe wheter I'm spraying or not. I'm hoping somebody a lot more in the know than I will jump in and say that I'm either and idiot or that my ideas might work.

[QUOTE=KySilverado]I'm watching Slowhoe also. :secret2 :
QUOTE]
I popped good old cylinder #7 at the track Friday. I will be doing a 6.0 swap soon. The N2O is on the back burner until I get back up and running. :(

get direct port through injector bungs...
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/LS1NXL.htm

maybe that will work with radix?

You can trick the computer into pulling timing by using the IAT tables. Put a toggle switch in the IAT sensor wire and when you open that circuit it defaults to like -40deg Then just adjust the table for the amt of timing you want to run.

T-byrne sells a timing tuner that you plug in-line to crank sensor. It only powers up when the nitrous is powered up. I'm going to try that. I won't know anything for a month or so because I'm not going to spray untill I get the forged LS1n that I'm building right now. Good luck w/ the tuning keep posting. Thanks.

If you are running 8-10 psi boost, then a 50 hp wet shot is fairly small. It's not like you're running lots of gas through it every time you get into boost (think meth or alcohol).

Given the fact that very few people have upgraded injectors when they increase the boost, I'd guess that there are a few people set up for failure by running a dry shot. I wouldn't even think about it if you are anywhere close to being maxed out on injector constant.

I also wouldn't even think about running nitrous AT ALL if you don't know where you are running your AFR at. While leaner makes a bit more power... richer doesn't burn pistons. Running richer might also save a Nitrous screw up. When you are running two power adders the margin for surviving errors goes down. Think real hard before you start going experimental with your daily drivers.

You can trick the computer into pulling timing by using the IAT tables. Put a toggle switch in the IAT sensor wire and when you open that circuit it defaults to like -40deg Then just adjust the table for the amt of timing you want to run.

Hey guy, it was actually you that turned me on to the idea of disabling a sensor to bring in the default timing maps. During STS in Bowling Green. I've been thinking MAF.... I'll have to look at the IAT sensor.

T-byrne sells a timing tuner that you plug in-line to crank sensor. It only powers up when the nitrous is powered up. I'm going to try that. I won't know anything for a month or so because I'm not going to spray untill I get the forged LS1n that I'm building right now. Good luck w/ the tuning keep posting. Thanks.

This sounds great. Possibly easier? Probably more expensive. Will keep it in mind in case disabling sensors doesn't work.

get direct port through injector bungs...
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/LS1NXL.htm

maybe that will work with radix?

I've looked at these and I do not THINK that they will fit on a Radix intake. The thick section where the fuel and nitrous are plumbed in will interfer with the Radix intake it appears. They may also raise the fuel rail to high and cause interference problems. I don't know for sure. I am thinking about just buying 1 and seeing if it will fit. Direct port would solve all the worries I have with getting nitrous on.

Any new info?

Nope. Waiting on you to gas your's :)

LOL! Shit, I got to get it runnin again first.