I will be getting a cam swap next month, can anyone post what all parts is needed??? I thought I saw someone say they bought a cam swap kit when they did their's???

thanks...

Heres what I used

Tools: Pully puller, big ass breaker bar. Sockets 8mm, 10mm ?mm(for pulley bolt) Pry bar, 5/16 dowel, case of favorite beer, spring compressor (if youre doing springs too duh) Pen magnet (also if youre doing springs)

Parts: Big nasty cam :devil: , Springs (?) Extra spring locks (I dropped 1....1out of 32, and of course this was on a Sun, so I couldnt get another) A new pulley bolt is recomended, but I re-used my stock one for the 1st and 2nd cam swap. More Beer, Paitence (if youre doing springs especially)

then youre gonna need a big stall and new tires :drive: :devil:

Oh yea and a torch :devil:

Oops, and more beer :chug:

Also an attractive tool girl, and a couple of buddies make it easier, and more plesant. It takes a little longer, but it is much more fun :)

This should help get you started - it's for F-Bodies, but most of it is applicable to our trucks. I followed it for my cam swap: LS1 How-To (http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23)

Scoggin Dickey sells a cam swap gasket kit that comes with all the gaskets you need and a new crank bolt, it's less than $40 if I remember correctly. They're sponsors over at ls1tech.

This should help get you started - it's for F-Bodies, but most of it is applicable to our trucks. I followed it for my cam swap: LS1 How-To (http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23)


Yep, that's what I used too... :)

Scoggin Dickey sells a cam swap gasket kit that comes with all the gaskets you need and a new crank bolt, it's less than $40 if I remember correctly. They're sponsors over at ls1tech.

I bought the kit, the only thing I wish it had is the longer crank bolt. I got it done without it, but it would have been much easier with it. Kit was great to have though, I feel good about putting all the new gaskets and such in.

Yep, that's what I used too... :)

Me three. Very good step-by-step instructions.

And go to your hardware store, get yourself a pair of 1/4" metal rods to hold the lifters up when you pull the stock cam out. They work like a charm and are cheap...$3 each or so. Get a couple of pen magnets too...they come in handy for spring locks and for retrieving bolts from the oil pan. Oops. I assume you have a spring compressor.....when you tighten it down, keep your fingers on the tip of the valve stems. When you do this and the locks pop out, they won't shoot out and you can grab them real easy with a pen magnet.

Me three. Very good step-by-step instructions.
Yea, I referenced that page a few times when I did my cam swap too...wish I had a computer in the garage at the time...

does the dealership sell the longer crank bolt??? if so, what part#???

i put my crank pulley in the microwave for like 20 minutes or something till it was around 210 degrees and it slid all the way on. i did this cause nobody in my town has a bolt long enough to use. when you swapping them out ap?

IN the microwave dont you mean the oven in the microwave it would blow it sky high cause of the metal content right?

I would also invest in a set of rachet wrenches escpecially a 10mm one you will need it and it will make life alot easier. No the dealership does not sell a longer one you ahve to go get it from the parts store. LS1Howto has the exact size you need.

I also referenced that page while doing the cam swap also.

in the mother freakin microwave haha. the first time i put the pulley on i left a rag in there with it and caught the microwave on fire. the second time i put it in there by itself and it was fine. yep get some ratchet wrenches. lets see here, sockets youll need 8mm, 10mm, 24mm, 13mm, and 15mm i think.

I bought the kit, the only thing I wish it had is the longer crank bolt. I got it done without it, but it would have been much easier with it. Kit was great to have though, I feel good about putting all the new gaskets and such in.
Why the longer crank bolt? :confused:

You need it to get the crank pulley back on.

From the LS1HowTo:

Seat your pulley back onto the snout of the crankshaft as best you can by hand. If you purchased a longer crank bolt which I *highly* recommend, start threading this in now and pull the pulley on about a 1/4 or 1/2 an inch and remove the longer bolt. Use your old stock crank pulley bolt to pull the pulley onto the crankshaft until the bolt seems to get impossible to turn. Grab your biggest torque wrench and attempt to torque that bolt down to 240lb/ft. I have always stopped at 200lb/ft on my installs and I've never had a problem, so if you can't hit 240 (which I never have), don't worry about it. Now, break the bolt free and remove it.

NOTE: If you did not buy a longer crank bolt, and you are reinstalling the stock pulley, you run the risk of stripping out the first few threads of the crankshaft. This will NOT be fun to fix! Take your NEW crank pulley bolt and thread it in all the way by hand. Torque this bolt to 37lb/ft. Now, we need to stretch the bolt into place. Get your breaker bar and pipe extension, and try to turn the bolt 140degrees past where it is at now, keeping in mind the engine will be trying to turn some and those are degrees you can't count. Again, I always seem to get about 90-100 degrees worth (estimating, knowing what 90 degrees looks like) and leave it as is so don't worry about going crazy here.

does somebody remember where to buy the longer crank bolt at???.

thanks..

Lookie here.... (http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/showpost.php?p=3196492&postcount=8)

is this the gasket ket you all are talking about
http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/2721/products/123618/Cam-Install-Gasket-Kit-1999-03-LS1-LS6-.htm

is this the gasket ket you all are talking about
http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/2721/products/123618/Cam-Install-Gasket-Kit-1999-03-LS1-LS6-.htm
That's it. :judge: