Honest answer needed: difficulty of installing DJM 4/6 drop?
#1
"As some of you may have gathered by now" (sorry, had to quote Jerry Jeff Walker real quick), I just bought an 01 RCSB Silvy.
The truck has a DJM 2/4 kit installed which I am not happy with. I bought the full DJM 4/6 kit with a c-notch.
My mechanical expertise is primarily in 5 liter Mustangs. I have built motors, done complete suspension swaps, rebuilt rear ends, yada yada yada... all in all I'm very mechanically capable.
Will I need any special tools to install the 4/6 drop? (spring compressors, etc).
Will my die grinder be sufficient to cut the frame for the c-notch?
Also, will my floor jack even be able to fit underneath the truck once the kit is installed???
Thanks for any advice you may have.
Chris
The truck has a DJM 2/4 kit installed which I am not happy with. I bought the full DJM 4/6 kit with a c-notch.
My mechanical expertise is primarily in 5 liter Mustangs. I have built motors, done complete suspension swaps, rebuilt rear ends, yada yada yada... all in all I'm very mechanically capable.
Will I need any special tools to install the 4/6 drop? (spring compressors, etc).
Will my die grinder be sufficient to cut the frame for the c-notch?
Also, will my floor jack even be able to fit underneath the truck once the kit is installed???
Thanks for any advice you may have.
Chris
#3
if it already has a drop on it then the rivets have been removed. there should be bolts hagning on the front hangers. to get to these bolts you will have to unbolt the gas tank and remove the straps. then slide it over and down some.
as for the c notch. you are going to wear that die grinder out. but yes it will work-slowly. a bigger grinder with a good cut off wheel will work better. a plasma cutter will do it real quick and nice.
on the floor jack. i have one of them all aluminum ones with a single whell on the front and it works good and is very low for the purpose to get under low vehicles.
tyo tell you the truth. it would be easier to pull the bed off and do the c notch. that will save some time and make the frame notching much easier.
as for the c notch. you are going to wear that die grinder out. but yes it will work-slowly. a bigger grinder with a good cut off wheel will work better. a plasma cutter will do it real quick and nice.
on the floor jack. i have one of them all aluminum ones with a single whell on the front and it works good and is very low for the purpose to get under low vehicles.
tyo tell you the truth. it would be easier to pull the bed off and do the c notch. that will save some time and make the frame notching much easier.
#4
The only trouble I ran into was seperating the stock lower ball joint from the spindle. It was a complete pain in the ***, and it took alot of beating. No spring compressor is needed. One you have the upper ball joint out, simply lower the jack supporting the LCA, and the spring will unload itself and fall out.
For the notch, I would get a good cutoff wheel if you dont have access to a plasma cutter. I also know people that have used a SawZal to complete the task. I didnt take off the bed to cut the notch. I actually think the bed helped support the back of the frame better before we could put the new notch on.
The lowest part of my frame has 3" of clearence. You will just have to find a place the jack will fit. I usually use the LCA pivot points by the bushings.
Make sure you allow enough time to get it completed. Depending on if you have any help, and how many breaks you take. You can get it done in a day. I finished mine in about 6 hours with the help of a few friends. BEst of luck to ya. You will be very happy with the new look the drop gives your truck.
For the notch, I would get a good cutoff wheel if you dont have access to a plasma cutter. I also know people that have used a SawZal to complete the task. I didnt take off the bed to cut the notch. I actually think the bed helped support the back of the frame better before we could put the new notch on.
The lowest part of my frame has 3" of clearence. You will just have to find a place the jack will fit. I usually use the LCA pivot points by the bushings.
Make sure you allow enough time to get it completed. Depending on if you have any help, and how many breaks you take. You can get it done in a day. I finished mine in about 6 hours with the help of a few friends. BEst of luck to ya. You will be very happy with the new look the drop gives your truck.
#5
I did the djm 4/6 on my truck and it wasn't that bad. It sounds like you have quite a bit more knowledge then I have currently so I think you would be fine. The only tool I had to buy was a ball joint tool. I did buy a spring compressor, however I used it on one side and didn't on the other. I agree with 02Denali about the die grinder, it will work, but slowly. Also, I did not take the bed off and was able cut the notch fine, although it would have been nice to have it off. When I got done my floor jack would not fit under the truck, so I had to use another jack on the sides to get the floor jack out, but this was not a low pro jack.
I know I asked the same thing before I did it and someone had a good response to it, let me see if I can find the post.Good luck with it.
*edit: Found it, check out the second post, Ryan23silverado.https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=185110
I know I asked the same thing before I did it and someone had a good response to it, let me see if I can find the post.Good luck with it.
*edit: Found it, check out the second post, Ryan23silverado.https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=185110
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#8
doesn't seem too bad ... I guess I'll have to borrow my buddy's sawzall because the general consensus is that a die grinder is not adequate.
I don't want to remove the bed if I don't have to.
Once I cut the frame, how do I make sure the front and rear frame rails still line up??
I don't want to remove the bed if I don't have to.
Once I cut the frame, how do I make sure the front and rear frame rails still line up??
#9
Originally Posted by NeedASilverado!!
Once I cut the frame, how do I make sure the front and rear frame rails still line up??
I used jackstands in the front and the rear of the axle to support the frame. I used a cutoff wheel on my frame and it worked really good. (3" diameter) I had to remove my box because my notch wraps the frame, Not really that big of deal.
If you are going to a flip kit and you have a shackle / hanger combo on it now I think you will need to put stock shackles and hangers back on it to get the 6". I'm sure someone will chime in on this but I think that is correct.
LK
#10
I recently did a 4/6 with 2" shackles also on my 03 silverado, it took around 8 hours, we had some problems with one of the lca's fighting with us, but other than that it was not hard to install, we took the bed off to notch the frame, we used a saw-zall to cut the frame with
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