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Two-piece to Single Piece Driveshaft

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Old 10-17-2014, 01:15 PM
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The longer a rotating shaft, the lower the rpm at which it will destroy itself. So 2 short shafts will give you a much higher safe wheel rpm than one long one. Also, the bigger the tube OD, thicker wall, and stiffer material (aluminum<steel) the higher the critical speed. My 2 piece setup (3.5" OD for DSS) has a critical speed (speed at which it will likely destroy itself) above 8200 RPM. With my tires and gears thats about 145 MPH. With a single piece it would likely be closer to 100 MPH.
Old 10-17-2014, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeebalow
The longer a rotating shaft, the lower the rpm at which it will destroy itself. So 2 short shafts will give you a much higher safe wheel rpm than one long one. Also, the bigger the tube OD, thicker wall, and stiffer material (aluminum<steel) the higher the critical speed. My 2 piece setup (3.5" OD for DSS) has a critical speed (speed at which it will likely destroy itself) above 8200 RPM. With my tires and gears thats about 145 MPH. With a single piece it would likely be closer to 100 MPH.
Well alrighty then, I'll stick with my two-piece. Thanks guys!
Old 10-22-2014, 10:27 PM
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When I had my lift put on, I had a a terrible vibration/bounce in my truck that drove me crazy.I tried everything trying to fix it from carrier bearing, u-joints, drive shaft angle, pinon angle, traction bar, sulastic shackles, new tires... nothing fixed it. I thought the same as you, it must be the 2-piece drive shaft but never did find a 1-piece that bolted in.

What it ended up being for me was the aftermarket wheels not being hub centric, which seemed crazy to me cause its lug-centric anyways. Hub-centric rings fixed my problem, its perfectly smooth now.

BTW I have needed the hub-centric rings for every set of aftermarket wheels I have used. I have even changed the rear diff once from a 14bolt-SF too FF and i still get a bounce without rings.
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