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My ongoing 8.1 adventures...

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Old 09-07-2014, 12:45 PM
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yeah all my trucks are manual trans, and putting certain manual trans behind 8.1's has been an adventure in itself
Old 10-12-2014, 12:27 PM
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Big thanks to Ed for helping out on the Raylar head swap on the shop Suburban! The way the engine pulls past 4k is unbelievable, the iron head fall-off is gone. It's very linear all the way to 6000rpm - I've never driven a big block with top end pull before. Looking forward to seeing all the parts you bought on your engines.

Last edited by Raylar Engineering; 10-12-2014 at 12:33 PM.
Old 10-12-2014, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Raylar Engineering
Big thanks to Ed for helping out on the Raylar head swap on the shop Suburban! The way the engine pulls past 4k is unbelievable, the iron head fall-off is gone. It's very linear all the way to 6000rpm - I've never driven a big block with top end pull before. Looking forward to seeing all the parts you bought on your engines.
Hell yeah thanks for having me I fixed the oil issue on the pos ford I am driving and then we figured out hitting the bump shut off issue today. weird way you tune these is using some socket and chip assembly i guess it was moving around on the pcm. some heater hose shoved in it fixed it. New assembly on the way...

Pics to follow once i get back to texas
Old 10-22-2014, 03:59 PM
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Old 11-18-2014, 08:59 AM
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How much luck are you guys having with the stock rods and crank? What are they good till power wise? I'm planning on the Big Power heads (already have), 206 cam, ported intake and forged pistons. I don't plan on any power adders. Just wondering if its worth holding off for stronger parts or if it won't matter much in this application.
Thanks. Sweet builds Ed
Old 11-18-2014, 12:09 PM
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no power adders, then rods should be good. i made 750 hp with a stock crank but if you plan on a power adder which i would highly recommend at least a single turbo then i would do rods
Old 11-18-2014, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by HemiHunter
How much luck are you guys having with the stock rods and crank? What are they good till power wise? I'm planning on the Big Power heads (already have), 206 cam, ported intake and forged pistons. I don't plan on any power adders. Just wondering if its worth holding off for stronger parts or if it won't matter much in this application.
Thanks. Sweet builds Ed
The rods are a bit stronger than the factory pistons, but tend to become wear items at the 550hp+ level. Crank is known to fail (snout typically breaks) around 700hp+. Since you're already going to have to drop the rotating assembly to remove the pistons, it makes perfect sense to put any worries to bed and run forged connecting rods at the same time.

When you get it all together, shoot some videos and well put em on the site like we have with Ed's truck.
Old 11-18-2014, 09:15 PM
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I will. It's gonna be a while gettin parts together. Power in these doesn't come cheep. Thanks for the input fellas
Old 12-23-2014, 01:51 PM
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ive never had any luck on a dynos with rwhp, in the suburban, with the front drive shaft out bone stock, it did 270 ish, 314 tq.. the tq was 314 from start of the run to the end.. we did 4 pulls, hp + / _ 5 on all pulls but tq was same.. figured it was the tq management..

fast forward a bunch of years and 150K miles, cam, springs, rockers, headers exhaust bla bla bla, it did 238whp 309tq, on 87 fuel... after that we just gave up, granted a lot has changed, stock was on on stock tires, the last one was on 35's and 65lb wheels, dynos where in different states, huge elevation changes ect ect... end result its faster than it was stock but makes less hp by the dyno, that place is also known for having a hurt your feelings bad dyno... we have had 6 cars there now on it, and all of them read 100 + hp less than other shops dynos we have been on...

I would still love to see a bone stock dyno of a 8.1L with a 4l80 or allison...


I dont know either as to where pistons die or rods, mine came apart when gas station gave me about 30 gallons of water.. mix that with 15 psi and it poop hit the oil pan, It lived about two and half years with a 78mm turbo on stock pistons and rods, I never made it to the dyno when it was turboed, but for a big lifted sububran it hauled the mail..

One day ill get around to doing the rhylar stuff.. ive got 3 8.1L, my game plan his big crank forged pistons and rods then cram it in my 69 camaro... As for the suburban i would want forged pistons when the turbo goes back on it, then it will need the trans built and converter, we hurt the last converter pretty bad... it got to where it stall out at about 3500 rpms on the foot brake lol... made for some awesome launches in 4wd.. then no matter what adjustments you did with the tuning it sometime just would not shift, it was like F you im done, data logger and all could not find a reason why. Some times it was first, most of the time it was second.. wide open, its pulling like crazy then nada.. it stuck on the revve limiter. you would have to let up on the gas 100 % before it would shift, then it would pull like crazy again.. Still does it ever now and then this current motor only has a cam, and the trans setting are stock, the tire size has been adjusted and is almost dead on for big tire. going mile marker to mile marker, its dead on up to about 70 mph. then it shows 1 mile is .9. which im still not convinced its off. When you running 70, hit the reset on the dash and log it, there has to be a few milla second delay on the display lol...

To be honest, they will take a lot of abuse before you have problems. Piston will die first no matter what I think back in the day tie rods finally came apart on a 250 shot of the juice, but that truck was prayed to death..

Last edited by Kerr; 12-23-2014 at 02:17 PM.
Old 12-23-2014, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Kerr
I would still love to see a bone stock dyno of a 8.1L with a 4l80 or allison...
Bone stock 8.1L / 4L80E on a dyno jet, 261hp / 358ft-lbs.


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